Sonam Kapoor, Apo And Mile, And Indian Savoir-Faire At Dior Fall 2023 In Mumbai

A love letter to the intricate craftsmanship of Indian textiles and a celebration of the country’s rich cultural tapestry.

By Kenneth Goh - published 31 Mar 2023

If the Gateway of India was built for the arrival of King-Emperor George V who never actually made it to India, then in 2023, the world of fashion finally arrived in this land of plenty with the unveiling of Dior's magnificent fall runway collection.

As guests walked around the open-air show space lined with a million colourful flowers on either side of the cobblestone runway, the scented air around this fabled country was ripe with anticipation of what was to follow. An all-black start to the show was a welcome homage to the traditional garb of kurta and pants done in silk and the softest linens, with embroidered hems and touches of metallic thread lining the outfits. Simple slippers shod the mostly local Indian models, made up with a modern rendition of a flapper look with pin-tucked curled hair and kohl-rimmed eyes. Elegant necks were circled with strands of freshwater pearls reminiscent of the Art Deco period.

The runway looks developed into more elaborate garbs, all richly embroidered and embellished by the skilled artisans of the Chanakya School of Craft, an artisanal atelier Maria Grazia Chiuri has been working with for three decades. Along with colours reflecting the tones and hues of the flowers lining the sides of the runway, spice rich tones of saffron, magenta, fuchsia and emerald came alive in resplendent silks and linens. Tie-dye denims brought modernity to the looks, while signature Dior bags such as the book tote came puffed up and padded like a series of poori pieces in patchwork. Flora, fauna and paisley motifs decorated simple tunic shirts and cropped cigarette trousers—some of which richly decorated with beads and sequins in all-matching, tone-on-tone combos.

All in all, Dior Fall 23 was a perfect marriage of modernity, simplicity, craftwork and femininity in a fitting homage to India, women, and the beauty of fashion from West to East.

The show was attended by the likes of Bollywood superstar Sonam Kapoor and Ananya Panday, Thai heartthrobs Apo and Mile, Cara Delevingne, Maisie Williams and more.