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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

Time well spent

The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands
The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

Photo: Getty

The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

Time is the most valuable asset, which must be why watch brands are pouring resources into sustaining this credo. Indeed, the industry spends a great deal of marketing dollars—hosting lavish parties, underwriting large-scale events, and recruiting A-list talents as brand ambassadors—to create an aura of prestige and provide reasons for why timepieces, more often than not, exceed the seven-figure range.

It is a strategy that is not only endemic to watch companies, but fashion as a whole—especially in the luxury sector. We are enticed by certain styles on our favorite celebrities, captivated by billboards, and, with social media being the beast that it is, inundated with a steady stream of advertisements. Still, with all this expenditure over the decades, the majority of watch brands, until fairly recently, focused only on half of the world’s population.

“Traditionally, men’s watches have been marketed more heavily than women’s,” David Hurley, executive vice president of Watches of Switzerland, tells BAZAAR.com. “Men have had less options to show their style through accessories.”

True, men have far less choices and are often relegated to select items, like watches, to express their sartorial predilections. Factor in that they perform a service and timepieces became a key component in a man’s wardrobe. Thus, brands took great pains to woo would-be clients into their world, tooting their history and rarity as much as their technical prowess. To wit: Customers are buying the lore, the cachet more so than the item per se.

Even with the rise of iPhones and other digital devices that are better suited to record time, the sales of analogue watches continue to spike year over year. “The idea that technology would deal a fatal blow to the watch, simply hasn’t panned out,” reads a report published in The Guardian. So much so that certain styles from storied brands continuously increase in value and break records at auction. All this shows that timepieces are essentially an emblem of status and power. And now that gender tropes have become passé, women are breaking down the doors of the all-boys club.

“The women’s watch market has been growing at a faster pace than the men’s,” says Hurley. “Smaller-case sizes and jeweled settings once set women’s timepieces apart. We are now seeing a departure from traditional gender-defining categories. We have clients buying across sectors, men looking for smaller-case sizes, and women for mechanical watches without diamonds, for example.”

This has led watch companies to expand their offerings. Yes, many have always created pieces for women. Some even achieved great fame for their women’s collections. But it is only recently—perhaps over the last two decades, when most brands have existed for more than a century—that there is greater emphasis on the type of watch women want to buy.

“Women define value differently,” observes Hurley. “At Watches of Switzerland, we have clients drawn to the technical aspects of a watch. We also have clients interested in the aesthetics of the design, like a beautiful dial, for example.”

With this in mind, let your proclivities and budget guide you when making a purchase. Just know that when it comes to watches, it is always time to invest.

This article originally appeared on Harper's BAZAAR US.

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In the provincial, picturesque town of Le Brassus, Switzerland, watchmakers Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet started creating movements for other labels. Many years later, over the course of the brand’s conception in 1875, it started to stamp its own name on timepieces, expanding both its reach and designs. It certainly took great pains to develop its aesthetic and deftness in the craft, promoting the slogan, “To break the rules, you must first master them.” Audemars Piguet achieved acclaim in the 1970s when the Royal Oak collection—with its distinct octagonal bezel—was introduced. But it was only two decades later that it placed a heavier focus on its offerings for women. It unveiled the Millenary watch in 1995 initially for men, then steered the collection—which is distinguished for its off-centered dial and elliptical case—for women exclusively in 2015. Pictured: Audemars Piguet Millenary Automatic Watch
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

In 1917, brothers Werner, Ernst, and Fritz Werner built Schlup & Co., a factory in Lengnau, Switzerland, that would later evolve into Rado in the 1950s to celebrate the company’s 40th anniversary. It was a decade later after the introduction of the DiaStar 1 that the brand became renowned for introducing sapphire crystals and hard metal to watchmaking. It continued to innovative throughout the years, creating high-tech bracelets in scratch-resistant and plasma ceramics, and crownless pieces that are set with a swipe of the finger. These characteristics are exemplified in the Esenza Touch, a timepiece made exclusively for women. Pictured: Rado Esenza Touch Quartz Watch
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

It was 1839 when Antoine Norbert de Patek and François Czapek joined forces to make pocket watches in Geneva, Switzerland. Years later in 1851, after French watchmaker Adrien Philippe replaced Czapek, the company scored a major coup when England’s Queen Victoria bought their a keyless pendant watch, eventually opening the floodgates to other royal clients. Throughout the subsequent decades, the newly minted Patek Philippe revolutionized the watchmaking industry, garnering patent after patent, from the perpetual calendar mechanism and double chronograph to self-winding mechanism and time-zone watches. Now, when the company announces a new collection or additions to an existing one, watch collectors (both men and women) wait with bated breath, showing the brand’s eminence in the industry. Though anything from the company is worth the investment, what really epitomizes the Swiss watch purveyor is the Perpetual Calendar. Pictured: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Watch in Yellow Gold
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

Swiss-based brands are reputedly the leaders in watchmaking, but over the decades, Japanese firms have been steadily climbing the ranks. One of the first brands to step up is Citizen. Registered in 1918, the company became a global force after WWII, when it focused on technological advancements instead of utilizing traditional techniques. Citizen was the first to introduce multi-band atomic timekeeping in the market, allowing for greater accuracy, and radio-controlled timekeeping, which automatically synchronizes to the wearer's time zone. Citizen furthered its mechanical prowess in 1976 by introducing the Echo-Drive technology, which was the first time that a timepiece’s battery was charged by solar panels under the face. Pictured: Citizen Chandler Watch
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

Few labels can rival the reputation Hermès has in the world of luxury leather. After all, it started as a manufacturer of accessories for carriages in 1837. It has since become a full-fledged lifestyle brand, introducing timepieces to its stable in 1978. Under the moniker La Montre Hermès SA, the subsidiary operates in Biel, Switzerland, where it creates collections that fall in line with the parent company’s heritage. And no watch encapsulates this principle more than the Cape Cod. First introduced in 1991, the timepiece was the brainchild of fashion designer Martin Margiela, who was the artistic director of the brand’s ready-to-wear line at the time. Seven years later, it introduced a distinct double strap made of leather, further highlighting Hermès’s equestrian roots. Pictured: Hermès Cape Cod Watch
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

Bulgari’s grasp on the fine jewelry industry is exceptional. The Italian label, founded by Sotirio Bulgari in 1884, has been lauded for its bold, sizable designs that recall the Greek and Roman baubles from antiquity—albeit with a modern twist. The most iconic of these designs is the Serpenti, a style that centers on the snake (a major motif of ancient times) and uses the tubogas (a.k.a. “gas-pipe”) technique, allowing a piece to coil around the wrist to wondrous effect. So when Bulgari decided to introduce watches to the company in the late 1940s, the Serpenti was the obvious choice. Keeping to its jewelry roots, the Serpenti has evolved over the decades to feature diamonds, rubies, enamels, and all manner of gems. Pictured: Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas Watch
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

With designs rooted in Americana, particularly print advertisements of the 1930s and ’40s, Fossil has distinguished itself from other watch brands that toot their European origins. It should come as no surprise, then, that the label was founded by a Texan, Tom Kartsotis, who gambled all his savings in 1984. His bet proved successful. From an initial offering of 1,500 pieces, produced in Hong Kong, Fossil has since conquered markets worldwide, subsequently licensing the names of fashion labels like Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Tory Burch, and Emporio Armani. It also still creates timepieces under its own moniker, creating an exclusive women’s line in 1989 that leaned toward Art Deco designs, and an online platform, Jacqueline, in 2011, which offers a wide array of styles. Pictured: Fossil Hybrid Smartwatch in Rose Gold-Tone Stainless Steel
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

Harry Winston’s history as a purveyor of diamonds dates back to 1932, when the eponymous gemologist founded a company that pioneered the way jewelry was designed. He focused on the stones—rather than the settings—to create intricate, eye-catching clusters. To wit: It reshaped the Hope Diamond to what it is today. This affinity for the brilliance and cut of gems manifested into a timepiece collection, aptly titled Premier, which was introduced several decades later in 1989. Since then, the brand has created watches covered in brilliants, shaped cases to resemble emerald-cut diamonds, and painted dials in midnight blue to highlight its history with the Hope Diamond. Pictured: Harry Winston Midnight Blue Sunray Diamond Dial Automatic Watch
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

In the history of watchmaking, Breguet’s reputation is unparalleled. Abraham-Louis Breguet is, after all, the mastermind behind the first wristwatch—a piece that was, no less, created for a woman. And not just any woman, but a queen. As the story goes, Caroline Bonaparte Murat, Queen of Naples, and Napoleon Bonaparte’s younger sister, was an avid collector of timepieces, amassing 34 in an age when watches were few and far between. It took 18 watchmakers two years to create her famous wristwatch, which featured straps made of gold threads and was ovoid in shape. And though modern-day versions of the Reine de Naples collection don’t require that many hands, the attention to detail of the original has been carried on throughout the centuries. Pictured: Breguet 18-Karat Rose Gold Diamond-Bezel Watch with Alligator Strap
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

Of the many motifs in Cartier’s vault, none stands out more than the leopard. The fabled French jewelry house—founded by Louis-François Cartier in 1847 and later coming into prominence under the direction of his grandsons, Louis, Jacques, and Pierre—has created iconic designs like the Santos de Cartier and Tanks watches, the Taylor–Burton Diamond, a number of England’s Crown Jewels, the Love bracelets, and unmistakable red packaging. But the leopard, or panthère in the brand’s original language, is probably its best mascot. The spotted feline takes literal shape in Cartier’s jewelry collection and the majority of its advertisements. But with the Panthère de Cartier watch collection, which debuted in 1983, the approach is far subtler. Rather than depict the leopard precisely, it takes the fierce qualities of the animal and imbues them into the design: the open-work chain that reveals a slither of skin, and the face that at first glance appears unassuming, but pounces in full view. Pictured: Cartier Small Panthère Watch in Yellow Gold & Diamonds
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

The phrase The pen is mightier than the sword certainly rings true for Montblanc. The Hamburg, Germany–based company was founded by Alfred Nehemias and August Eberstein in 1906 as a manufacturer of writing instruments. Indeed, the label ranks high among pen aficionados, most of whom have a particular affinity for the Meisterstück. So when Montblanc decided to introduce a line of timepieces in 1997, it did so with its most iconic pen design. It has since created a number of collections throughout the years, but like the Meisterstück, they were marketed to men. It was not until the introduction of the Bohème watch in 2015 that the company really invested resources in wooing women. Pictured: Montblanc Bohème Day & Night Watchanc
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

Popularity has always ranked high for Timex. Since 1854, when the firm began as a clock manufacturer in Waterbury, Connecticut, it mass-produced items everyone could afford. It stuck to this ethos throughout the years, selling pocket watches for 35 cents when they became de rigueur, and then partnering with the Walt Disney Company in the ’30s to create wristwatches that featured Mickey Mouse, a familiar face to most—if not all—households. In 1950, Timex debuted the V-conic, the first high-quality movement that was offered in the United States. More than three decades later, it produced the first sports watch that was completely digitized, and later pieces that glowed in the dark. The company today features a wide range of styles, becoming a subsidiary of the Netherlands-based Timex Group B.V., which also licenses the names of fashion brands including Versace and Salvatore Ferragamo. Pictured: Timex Waterbury Classic 40mm Leather Strap Watch
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

Hublot was founded in 1980 by Carlo Crocco, an Italian expatriate who moved to Switzerland. Though it is a relative newcomer to the stable of Swiss-based brands, what it lacks in longevity, it makes up for in innovation. Many of its celebrated collections (Classic Fusion, Big Bang, and Spirit of Big Bang) introduced fresh ways to use ceramics, sapphires, scratch-resistant gold, and natural rubber. These characteristics, along with bold, sizable designs are what set Hublot apart from others. Even the women’s lines, which tend to be daintier than other brands, adhere to Hublot’s hearty reputation. Pictured: Hublot Classic Fusion Quartz Gold 33mm Blue Dial Watch
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

In 1896, across the street from the Hôtel Ritz at 22 Place Vendôme, Alfred Van Cleef and his father-in-law, Salomon Arpels, opened the doors to a fine jewelry store for the neighborhood’s discerning clientele. It would grow to become a leader in the market, continuously offering baubles steeped in charm and fantasy—two traits that exemplify the Alhambra, the maison’s most iconic design. Perhaps second in prestige is the Cadenas watch, which made its debut in 1935 alongside four other styles. But it is the Cadenas that remained in production until the ’60s and was reintroduced in 2015. This is because of its unique design: The timepiece features a padlock-shaped clasp that holds the movement and a slinky gold cord bracelet that is intended to rest loose on the wrist. Pictured: Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas Sertie Gold Watch
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

Over the past decade, the idea of producing products in America as a means to stimulate the economy has been a cause célèbre for politicians—many of whom talk a great game but do nothing to really move the needle. Tom Kartsotis, who made ground with Fossil, has proven that action speaks louder than words. In 2011, Kartsotis opened the Shinola watch factory in Detroit, Michigan, a city that fell on hard times after the decline of the U.S. automotive industry. He sought to compete with the dominant Swiss-based brands by providing quality products, while simultaneously causing a dent in Detroit’s unemployment rate. It launched with the Runwell, a timepiece that uses crystals, sapphires, and other components that make up a luxury watch, but at a more affordable price point. Pictured: Shinola The Runwell Leather Strap Watch
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

With a five-point crown as a symbol, it’s no wonder many think Rolex is the king of watches. Founded in 1905 in London, England, by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis, the company moved its operations to Geneva, Switzerland, after WWI. It was there where the duo developed the first waterproof and dustproof wristwatches in 1926; and the first self-winding mechanism with a Perpetual rotor five years later. Looking to bolster its reputation, the company bought advertisements to show the technical mastery of its timepieces, including one that featured Mercedes Gleitze, who wore a Rolex watch when swimming across the English Channel. He also became its first brand ambassador—a moniker that would be attributed to A-list actors, sports stars, and music legends throughout the years. Indeed, Rolex’s greatest achievement is creating a marketing machine that is far ahead of its competitors. So much so that secondhand watches often break records when sold at auction, particularly the Cosmograph Daytona, which debuted in the ’60s. Pictured: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Watch
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

When one thinks of luxury timepieces, Geneva, Switzerland, is the first city that comes to mind. A close second is Glashütte, Germany, a hamlet that boasts a number of watch manufacturers—the foremost being A. Lange & Söhne. Founded by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in 1845, the company would experience highs and lows through two World Wars and the reconstruction of Germany, when private companies were seized by the government. It was after German reunification in 1990 that A. Lange & Söhne rose from the proverbial ashes, reestablishing itself as a horological leader that could create technically detailed watches as well as the Swiss—if not better. Pictured: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 37 Rose Gold Watch
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

James Bond has donned a great number of watches in his many film iterations, but his current timepiece—worn by modern holder of the 007 moniker, actor Daniel Craig—is Omega’s Seamaster. Brawny, attractive, and incredibly suave, Bond fits all the masculine tropes, and his watch certainly reflects that. Even though Omega has a spokesperson who is the emblem of virility, it has done more to market its women’s line than any luxury company throughout the years. Founded by Louis Brandt in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, in 1848, the company started modestly, selling watches for a good number of clients. It was not until his sons took over the business, introducing its first mass-produced caliber, that Omega started to become a major player in the watch industry. It would gain greater prominence by acting as the official timekeeper at large-scale male sporting events. Still, it saw that female consumers valued timekeeping, too, which is why it made movements in the guise of jewelry. It also created a line, the Medicus, exclusively for nurses in 1937. And under a decade later, it debuted the Ladymatic watch, and actively promoted the style through advertisements in an era when the market was still geared to men. Pictured: Omega De Ville Ladymatic Watch
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

It was 1884 when Antoine LeCoultre, at his workshop in Le Sentier, Switzerland, made history. There, he invented an instrument that measured time to the micron. And just three years later, he came up with a system that didn’t require a key to wind and set a watch. It was this mastery at creating movements that catapulted LeCoultre into the limelight. Several decades later, after partnering with French watchmaker Edmond Jaeger, the company produced the movement blanks for illustrious brands like Cartier and Patek Philippe. Without patents, other firms had free reign over these innovations. Still, Jaeger-LeCoultre soldiered on, focusing on creating pieces that were innovative technically, but classic visually. One prominent example is its invention of the smallest mechanical movement, which were better suited for jewelry watches. Then in 1931, the company debuted the Reverso, a style that is noted for its rectangular case, Art Deco design, and for being originally made for women and then adopted for men—a characteristic that is often the reverse. Pictured: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Small Steel Watch
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

Founded in 1860 by Édouard Heuer, Tag Heuer has built its brand based on a sporty, active lifestyle. It patented the oscillating pinion in 1887, revolutionizing chronographs (a.k.a. designs with a stopwatch), allowing for accuracy in tracking time. It continued down the path of innovation with a patent for a water-resistant case. Later, the company would produce time-measuring instruments for automobiles, boats, and aircrafts. Then in 1912, it debuted its first line of women’s watches, which were thin and jewelry-like in design. It was not until 1963, with the launch of the Carrera collection—which was named after the Carrera Panamericana, a sports car racing event—that its women’s offerings began to gel better with Tag Heuer’s bold and sleek reputation. Pictured: Tag Heuer Carrera Stainless Steel and White Mother of Pearl Dial Watch with Diamonds
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The Ultimate Guide To The Best Watch Brands

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