An Editor’s Guide To Nailing Black Tie, Formal And Smart Casual Attire For Men

When your party invite arrives in your inbox, there’s a strong likelihood that it’ll come with a dress code.

While some may demand more creative thinking in interpreting the dress code, the traditional codes and unspoken nuances will always apply. No matter what the dress code may be or how strange “galactic glamour” may sound on an invite, a ballroom gala usually demands black tie, while an intimate gathering among friends calls for something more casual without being sloppy.

With that, here’s your 10-minute guide on decoding the various dress codes so you’re always togged appropriately, with new ideas on interpreting this as inspired by the runways.

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Black Tie

Much like the dress code suggests, the very basis of black tie starts with black tie, though that’s hardly sufficient in meeting the requirement.

“Black tie” often denotes a higher level of formality, so your standard 9-to-5 suits wouldn’t cut it either. While tailcoats feel stiff and staid, a tuxedo is always a safe bet. Most commonly, jackets come with dress lapels and buttons. A stiff-front shirt is often the status quo, and patent leather dress shoes are recommended as a finishing touch.

Lean tailoring by way of Dolce&Gabbana or Givenchy lends a sense of contemporariness to black tie. Alternatively, opt for tux in a surprising cream tone like Tom Ford’s for a maverick take on the dress code.

Nothing says rakish quite like a satin shawl-collared smoking suit.

A tuxedo shirt is a non-negotiable, and no, you can’t swap it out for your regular white poplin shirts. Look for distinctive details like the bib front and a starched collar to discern if the shirt on display is meant to be worn with a tux.

Traditionalists will say that pre-tied bow ties are not the way to go, but unless you’ve mastered the art of tie a perfect bow, we say stick to the fuss-free ease that a buckled tie offers.

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Formal

If you’re standing in front of your closet wondering what formal is, there’s a traditional explanation and a modern reinterpretation.

Conservatively, formal is a notch lower than black tie, so think of sober-coloured suits, silk ties, leather shoes—the standard works. But given that every Hollywood actor is throwing on a bright yellow satin suit sans shirt, the notion of “formal” today can also refer to looking more dressed up than what you’d usually put on for, say, a business luncheon.

For starters, if you’re less adventurous, then a pinstriped suit like one on the AMI runway is always failproof. A cosy knitted suit from Dior Men feels more laidback, whereas jazzier personalities may opt for a pale pink Gucci suit grounded with oxblood details.

When you add a double-breasted front to a pinstriped wool, it amps up the “boss vibes” to the max.

A lighter but no less formal option to a darker suit is to don something in a cream tone. Perfect for daytime parties.

Add a rugged touch to your suit by swapping your dress shoes for a pair of boots.

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Smart Casual

Similar to what “formal” denotes today, the idea of smart casual feels a little bit more amorphous. In the gist of it, smart casual is a balance between polish and relaxed.

Tailoring remains central in fulfilling the “smart” portion of the dress code, but the casual part leaves a little more room for interpretation and exploration. Whether it’s a pair of sneakers, or megawatt accessories, seize the freedom to explore your own personal sense of creativity.

I love a high-low blend for smart casual: something tailored meeting something sporty. Prada’s proposition of tailored track trousers and a fine mohair sweater, or Jonathan Anderson for LOEWE’s crisp poplin shirt tucked into a scribbly pair of joggers all feel fresh and fun for a party. Even Dries Van Noten’s roomy trousers, when paired with a fitted blazer, feels fresh and easy.

One classic example of the tailored-meets-sporty vibe is this pair of trousers, which feature a sewn front pleat and track pants-inspired details.

Slip into something notably festive with a lush burgundy shirt.

If a blazer isn’t your cup of tea, a utilitarian work jacket is a smart alternative as well.