This season, the winning formula that Kim Jones has perfected at Dior Men—a mix of couture glamour and contemporary streetwear—is threaded through with a military vibe. It manifested in the mandarin-collared shirts, the side-striped trousers tucked into boots, the berets and badges as well as star buttons that accessorised the looks. Despite its influence, the collection wasn’t severe nor overly strict—there was softness and richness too in the dense embroideries, the tactile mohairs, the jacquards. While the textures were rich, the silhouette was restrained, striking just the right blend of long and lean with loose and easy.

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Jones’ art-world collaborator this season was the painter, Peter Doig, known for his richly-coloured, atmospheric works. The Dior ateliers worked wonders in transferring the artist’s brushstrokes onto knitwear and recreating his paintings on coats, anoraks and blousons. Doig’s sensibility also heavily informed the collection’s expressive colour palette—brilliant tangerine and yellows alongside dusky blues, lilac and aubergine, tempered by neutral whites, blacks, greys and camel.

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