Review Of Hermès Men’s Fall/Winter 2021

Once again, Véronique Nichanian delivered a collection that while true to the Hermès DNA of quiet luxuriousness, also addressed the way men want to dress today in this new normal. She did so by playing with the ideas of the inside vs. the outside, the formal against the informal. Soft tailoring, elevated workwear and luxe sportswear alike were all cut with the ease of loungewear, grounded either by glossy leather boots or brightly-coloured sneakers. Pockets were turned into a graphic detail, twisted and placed askew—their outlines picked out in saddlery stitching. 

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The fabrications continued the interplay of opposites, technical fabrics like water-repellent cottons, canvas and gabardine appearing alongside rich, tactile materials like double wool, cashmere, tweeds and leathers cut from deerskin, lambskin, baby lamb and calfskin. The way Nichanian clashed colours was subtle but impactful, using shades with delectable names like cumin, glycin, absinthe, frost blue and liquorice. 

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Equally impactful was the way the clothes were presented. Nichanian reunited with the director Cyril Teste for another round of carefully choreographed spontaneity that truly drove home the nonchalant spirit of the collection. Models wandered up, down, outside and around the Mobilier National in Paris—some huddled chatting in groups, some leaning against walls—while multiple cameras wandered with them, zooming in to focus on details or out to present the full tableaus. The film’s meandering quality truly captured the energy of a fashion show and the way a physical attendee would take it all in. 

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