The first major fashion week of the season has wrapped, but before we head up to Paris, we have to talk about the biggest trends which hit the Italian runways this past week. But the fall/winter 2023 collections thus far have not disappointed, with overarching themes stretching from aviation and the space age to ‘90s grunge, modern sensuality and gender-neutral sensibilities. Ahead, we round up the biggest moments at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, from the runways of Gucci, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and more.
Aside from the usual earthy and autumnal tones, purple thrived, with multiple houses featuring shades of this royal colour across a variety of tops, bottoms, shoes and bags. Most notably, Emporio Armani dedicated an entire section of its show to all things purple, including velvet suits, corduroy jackets, and even leather gloves.
Featuring eye-catching satin, metallic finishes and lots of sequins, Dolce & Gabbana’s runway presentation didn’t shy away from sparkly, glittering mesh shirts, shiny co-ords and bedazzled outerwear, while Gucci and Prada leaned into the use of chrome. Looks like this 2022 trend isn’t done with us just yet.
Y2K is continuing its dominance on the runways with bold words which are playfully printed. Good examples include MSGM’s sports jersey, Dsquared2’s spaghetti strap top and Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY’s oversized double-breasted suit. This comes as no surprise as printed t-shirts and aggressive branding were all the rage back in the day.
Symmetrical patterns have made a comeback. Both the Emporio and Giorgio Armani lines showcased sweaters and cardigans that added more visual textures, along with fuzzy cashmere. Although Etro is no stranger to jacquard and embroidered knitwear, the FW23 collection went all in on matching patches, swirls and geometrical shapes across the looks.
Mini bags have officially taken a backseat, with most labels focusing on roomy totes, backpacks, satchels and more. Gucci’s first season without Alessandro Michele bid adieu to his maximalist aesthetic for the most part except for large bags in various shapes and fabrics, from canvas to leather. Sportswear brand K-Way had a similar idea with giant bum bags, while Fendi featured a more reasonably-sized spread of shoppers, and its iconic Peekaboo silhouette.
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Despite the cold temperatures, bare chests are a common sight during menswear shows – but bare legs are the latest trend to sweep the runways. Take it from LOVERBOY and JORDANLUCA: skirts for men, whether mini or maxi, are back. Short shorts have also made their mark thanks to Jonathan Anderson’s irreverent sense of humour for his eponymous label.
Oversized tailoring continues its reign, but cropped jackets are following closely behind. Case in point, Prada had a mix of longline parkas along with cropped variants, and a stunning snow-white cropped balloon bomber. Similarly, Gucci combined two trends with a satin cropped bomber jacket. 1017-ALYX-9SM, led by Matthew Williams, featured a number of cropped racer jackets, which have also been spotted on many other runways.
- Milan Men's Fashion Week