Eric Nam, Teyana Taylor, And Notions Of Uniform At Sacai Spring Summer 2024

Chitose Abe brought sacai's unique tropes to workwear and suiting.

By Shermin Ng - published 27 Jun 2023

For Spring/Summer 2024, Chitose Abe brought sacai's unique tropes to workwear and suiting. Inspired by '70s punk and "the spirit that came of a cultural movement that reacted to another time when the world seemed in flux," the notions of uniform were explored with a hopeful positivity.

Oversized denim jackets were bonded to pinstripe blazers worn over matching mini-skirts, while floral prints were spliced with moleskins born from French workwear of the '40s as an appliqué detail, paired with knits and matching separates.

The collection also presents suiting fabrics like pinstripe, tweed, and cotton gabardine in new silhouettes. Folded pleats are used to shrink proportions and reduce volume, appearing as peplums, pants and skirts or as intricate folds in knitwear. Elsewhere, a sleeveless trench is slashed and the fabric condensed to resulting in a narrower shape. Plus, the label’s ongoing collaboration with Carhartt WIP expands on the idea of bonding, where their famous 'duck' fabric melds with suiting or cut as a bib extending from an elegant pleated dress.