The long parade of more than 100 fashion shows during the spring 2020 season, which took place a few months ago, has finally come to market. The first order of business is discerning the most impactful trends of the season—from artisanal crochet and graphic polka dots to a look at decades past via disco collars and ’60s wallpaper prints, couture feathers, hot pants, bold neons, and many more. See which designers led the pack for each new mode before you give your wardrobe a refresh. Welcome to what’s now.
1. The Disco Collar
And just like that disco’s not dead. The wide collar favored by the Studio 54 set made a surprise comeback on the spring 2020 runways. Modernized on coats, jackets, and button-downs at Lanvin, Ferragamo, JW Anderson, and beyond, the look is often shown with contrasting colors to make it really stand out. Because what’s the point of a super collar if you can’t really see it?
2. Not Your Grandmother’s Crochet
Crochet is getting a cool update come spring. Think ultra-feminine dresses, polished suiting, and eveningwear that feels modern with a special touch of Grandma’s handmade crochet. As the fashion industry looks for ways to become more sustainable, there’s something special about a “trend” that embraces a slow, handmade technique that can be passed down generation after generation—à la that treasured family heirloom that lasts forever.
3. Some Like It Hot Pants
Who wears short shorts? A lot of us. Hot pants staged a triumphant comeback on the spring 2020 runways—from itty bitty knit shorts at Hermès and Ferragamo to denim cutoffs at Rag & Bone and spandex at Brandon Maxwell. For those who’d rather ease into Daisy Duke status, Chanel styled the look with black tights.
4. Highlighter Reel
What’s fluoro pink, orange, blue, green, and yellow, and refuses to blend in with the crowd? All the highlighter-inspired neons gracing your favorite catwalks, from Tom Ford to Christopher John Rogers, and Courreges. Subtle may not be her specialty, but these vibrant shades pair wonderfully with black, white, or tan, and know how to make an entrance.
5. Business In Bermuda
If the thought of hot pants makes you want to run, Bermuda shorts are here to save the day. Putting a twist on the classic suit, designers from Bottega Veneta to Chloe to Givenchy embraced the Bermuda short suit for spring. Part nine-to-five, part California cool, meet the next wave of the bike short trend.
6. Bra-Top Craze
Crop tops are no longer cutting it—the bra top has officially entered the party. From crochet iterations at Dior and Giambattista Valli to a more daring sheer number at Loewe, bikini dressing comes in all textures and styles. Just add a high-waisted skirt and you’ve got the perfect summer look.
7. In Tiers
Last season found us in a sea of flowing tulle, indication that gala gowns were ready to hit the circuit beyond your basic black-tie affair. Expanding on that idea for spring 2020 are lovely and light tiered dresses that manage to offer volume, high drama, and maximum twirl-ability. Oscar de la Renta and Roksanda took the idea pretty in pink, while Preen, McQueen, and Dior went classic in black and white.
8. ’60s Wallpaper
We’ll spare you the groundbreaking florals this season and instead, look to ’60s and ’70s wallpaper for your print fix. Retro prints ruled the runways—bringing both major color and pattern to all the top collections. Serving up mod home decor realness, vintage wallpaper (and couch) prints were channeled in the form of suiting at Prada and Marc Jacobs. Christopher Kane opted for a more psychedelic wallpaper print in the form of spring dresses, while Etro and Alberta Ferretti delivered a more bohemian-print option.
Related article: All The Standout Collections Of Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2019
9. Birds of a Feather
When it comes to eveningwear, as much as the world is wont to convince you, sometimes a little black dress just won’t do. Enter: boldly feathered frocks and tops from Burberry, Valentino, Attico, and more. While almost certainly light as air, these ensembles pack a heavy sartorial punch.
While the term borrowed from the boys is so passe in 2019, there is something decidedly last midcentury Savile Row about the vest. Whether included as part of a three-piece suit at Burberry and Etro, or mismatched with a jacket at Louis Vuitton, there’s something quite dapper and appealing—not to mention endlessly flattering—about the almighty waistcoat.
11. Spring Leather
Once reserved strictly for fall and winter, leather is ready to have its moment during spring too. The material was spotted on spring 2020 runways from New York to Paris in just about every form—from colorful jackets at Coach 1941 and Bottega Veneta to skirts and pants at Marni and Alexander McQueen.
12. Le Polka Dots
Designers are digging in their luxury heels when it comes to the almighty dot—simply put, the trend shows no sign of slowing. The innovative duo that is Dries Van Noten and Christian Lacroix found a place for the polka dot on a maxi skirt-and-simple tank pairing, topped off with a head feather, while Balmain embraced volume for the enchanting print, and Wes Gordon at Carolina Herrera went fitted, ’90s, and sheer for one of his takes on dots.
This article originally appeared on Harper’s BAZAAR US.
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