4 Young Labels Changing The Game for Female Designers

Meet the fresh talents breaking fashion’s glass ceiling

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Photo: Getty

Coco Chanel. DVF. Phoebe Philo. No matter how diverse women creators are and have always been, there are certain tropes that come with the territory of being a ‘female designer’. Her work is usually seen as being rooted in the personal and practical in a way her male counterparts’ isn’t, and a female designer’s output is often referred to, somewhat condescendingly, as ‘woman-friendly’ (an insult, when one really thinks about it, to both sexes). Worse still, her gender may sometimes take precedence over her craft, as was the case with most coverage of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s appointment to the top job at Dior.

While men and women may have different perspectives and experiences, it is reductive to generalize woman-made fashion as workaday and less imaginative, which the industry has been inclined to do in the past. The four young, female-led labels featured in our gallery explode those tired notions with their exciting and challenging designs. From Molly Goddard’s girly innocence to Johanna Ortiz’s summery sultriness, get acquainted with some of fashion’s hottest rising stars, who just happen to be women, thank you very much.

By Ryan Sng

Rosie Assoulin

Debut season: Resort 2014 Photo: Instagram
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Rosie Assoulin

Calling card: graphic, architectural shapes, extremely wide-legged jumpsuits and trousers Photo: Instagram
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Rosie Assoulin

Notable celebrity endorsements: Gwyneth Paltrow, Karlie Kloss, Michelle Dockery, Tamu McPherson Photo: Instagram
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Molly Goddard

Debut season: Spring Summer 2015 Photo: Instagram
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Molly Goddard

Calling card: faux-naïve, ruched or smocked tulle babydoll dresses Photo: Instagram
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Molly Goddard

Notable celebrity endorsements: Rihanna, Agyness Deyn, Susie Bubble Photo: Instagram
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Johanna Ortiz

Photo: Instagram
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Johanna Ortiz

Calling card: bare shouldered, frill-tastic looks and tropical florals Photo: Instagram
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Johanna Ortiz

Notable celebrity endorsements: Bianca Brandolini, Leandra Medine, Indre Rockefeller Photo: Instagram
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Isa Arfen by Serafina Sama

Debut season: Spring Summer 2013 Photo: Instagram
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Isa Arfen by Serafina Sama

Calling card: youthful, oversized outerwear, calf-length culottes Photo: Instagram
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Isa Arfen by Serafina Sama

Notable celebrity endorsements: Alexa Chung, Margherita Missoni, Yasmin Sewell Photo: Instagram
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