Coco Chanel. DVF. Phoebe Philo. No matter how diverse women creators are and have always been, there are certain tropes that come with the territory of being a ‘female designer’. Her work is usually seen as being rooted in the personal and practical in a way her male counterparts’ isn’t, and a female designer’s output is often referred to, somewhat condescendingly, as ‘woman-friendly’ (an insult, when one really thinks about it, to both sexes). Worse still, her gender may sometimes take precedence over her craft, as was the case with most coverage of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s appointment to the top job at Dior.
While men and women may have different perspectives and experiences, it is reductive to generalize woman-made fashion as workaday and less imaginative, which the industry has been inclined to do in the past. The four young, female-led labels featured in our gallery explode those tired notions with their exciting and challenging designs. From Molly Goddard’s girly innocence to Johanna Ortiz’s summery sultriness, get acquainted with some of fashion’s hottest rising stars, who just happen to be women, thank you very much.
By Ryan Sng