Vionnet, Paris Fashion Week
Photo: ImaxTree

MAISON MARGIELA

Margiela: A resounding return to the stage in a bigger space at the Tuileries Garden (the venue where John Galliano often showed his Dior collection in the past) but in an enclosed white space of a few rows—it was a much more quiet affair. The Japanese-inspired collection melded embellishments with cool obi belts and puffer silhouettes to make it a thoroughly modern and more feminine take on the house. The highlight of the collection: Kabuki men in apron dresses was a tribute to traditional Japanese theatre and a spectacle of the coolest quality.

Margiela, Paris Fashion Week

Margiela, Paris Fashion Week

Margiela, Paris Fashion Week

DRIES VAN NOTEN

Dries van Noten was simply a wonderful exploration of texture and Colour with brocade, silk, bold strokes of colour and print in the most quietly lavish manner. A slightly old world charm—of fabrics long lost and rediscovered gave this collection a vintage modern quality with dries clever use of layers, Colour combinations of bold pinks and navy and wide wide trousers. Sporty elements like embellished jackets made it a feast for the senses.

Van Noten, Paris Fashion Week

Van Noten, Paris Fashion Week

Van Noten, Paris Fashion Week

ROCHAS

Rochas was delightfully pastel and layered with tulle and net under lace dresses—all with the hint of lingerie which is what the house has referenced for the longest time. Inner wear as outer wear in the most feminine and beautiful sense, paired with lace kitten heels made this a collection fit for a modern day princess.

Rochas, Paris Fashion Week

Rochas, Paris Fashion Week

Rochas, Paris Fashion Week

VIONNET

Vionnet explored layers of nude and white tulle in what has become a very feminine and pretty house. Under Chalayan’s tutelage the house has progressed from trying to go couture-cutting edge to whispers of clever Fortuny pleats on dresses masquerading as trousers and a studied hand at using ultra-feminine fabrics like tulle and silk chiffon but with a strict tailoring eye so that nothing looks saccharine but instead, modern and wearable in the not-for-red-carpet sense of the word.

Vionnet, Paris Fashion Week

Vionnet, Paris Fashion Week

Vionnet, Paris Fashion Week

To see all our coverage from PFW SS16, click here. And follow us on Instagram and Snapchat (@harpersbazaarsg) for all the live coverage from the shows!

Text by Kenneth Goh