Oliver Lapidus is leaving Lanvin after less than a year in the role. The label’s in-house team will be responsible for forthcoming collections until a successor is named.
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In an official statement, the designer was thanked for having “steered the Maison through a transitional period between ownerships.” Lapidus will return to work on his own label, Creation Olivier Lapidus. He joined the luxury label—known as oldest surviving couture house—in July last year and has created two collections, neither of which have been received positively.
His latest show, which was presented in Paris last month, was branded “abysmal” by veteran fashion critic Cathy Horyn, while the Guardian said that his eveningwear “failed to capture the insouciant magic” of former Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz.
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Having worked at Balmain Homme, as well as his own label, Lapidus had big plans for the business aiming to rebrand it as a “French Michael Kors.” However, not long after the designer’s first collection was panned, Lanvin was acquired by Fosun, the Chinese conglomerate that also owns Club Med. The conglomerate reportedly invested €100 million ($123 million) to help restore the label’s fortunes which have been suffering since before Elbaz was ousted in 2015.
Elbaz—a much-loved industry figure who helmed Lanvin for 14 years—was known for his feminine, glamorous eveningwear that was hit on the red carpet and among fashion circles. Regardless, sales dropped (some say because its accessories weren’t strong enough), and Elbaz was fired. He was replaced by Bouchra Jarrar, who tried a more fuss-free, androgynous look which failed to resonate with Lanvin customers. She left after 16 months at the helm and Lapidus was hired four days later.
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This article originally appeared on Harper’s BAZAAR US.