Nearly one year after Pierpaolo Piccioli kickstarted a Barbie pink fashion agenda with Valentino's fall 2022 collection, the first runways of the fall 2023 season are painting in a new color. They're done with thinking pink, to put it mildly.
At least ten designers at New York Fashion Week have cast their votes for red as the soon-to-be-everywhere shade of 2023. The majority of red looks arrived in shades with orangey undertones, but some have leaned Taylor Swift 'Maroon' in deeper hues. But regardless of the specific color, what these pieces have in common is that they all look like the best red lipstick feels. They're still saturated and bright enough to stop traffic, but they convey power and a sense of elegance—and maybe a little bit of maturity.
Related article: Five Fall Colour Trends From The Runway
One of the first vibrant red looks of the week, at Theory. (Photo: Getty Images)
One of the first vibrant red looks of the week, at Theory.
"Red has been a color I’ve been forecasting for months so I am beyond thrilled to see it on the runway!" Bloomingdale's fashion director Marissa Galante Frank told me in an email between shows. She describes it as "strong and sexy"—a combination that makes sense in the elevated wardrobing designers like Proenza Schouler have presented so far this season.
Alejandra Alonso Rojas incorporated silky reds into her collection with tailored suits and slinky dresses. (Photo: Don Ashby)
Alejandra Alonso Rojas incorporated silky reds into her collection with tailored suits and slinky dresses.
Prabal Gurung’s fall 2023 collection incorporated pops of red—including in the models’beauty looks. (Photo: Fernanda Calfat // Getty Images)
Prabal Gurung’s fall 2023 collection incorporated pops of red—including in the models’beauty looks.
The first glimpses of 2023's emerging primary color obsession technically came an entire fashion week and another continent ago. Last month at Copenhagen Fashion Week, designers incorporated flashes of red into their collection with sinuous sequin dresses (Ganni), sueded tailored separates (Saks Potts), and coordinating lounge separates (Baum und Pferdgarten).
Related article: The Best Street Style From Copenhagen Fashion Week
Copenhagen Fashion Week inlcluded models in red at Saks Potts’ fall 2023 show… (Photo: Tonya Matyu)
Copenhagen Fashion Week inlcluded models in red at Saks Potts’ fall 2023 show...
…and at Ganni’s fall 2023 show. (Photo: Tonya Matyu)
...and at Ganni’s fall 2023 show.
As fashion month keeps chugging along, that vivacious red keeps appearing on the runway. So far at New York Fashion Week, the shade has manifested in nearly every category of clothing—except for swimwear—and more often than not showed up in head-to-toe monochrome. Some of the most notable looks, like fluid trousers and sharp-shouldered blazer dresses shown at Theory, Jason Wu, Alice + Olivia, and Alejandra Alonso Rojas, took the sophisticated, structured suit sets revived by street style and injected them with fresh a fresh palette. "As we embrace this minimalist cycle, the color red really gives classic, tailored pieces an element of excitement and breathes new life into basics," Galante Frank agreed.
Photo: Bergdorf Goodman
Burberry Sulby Cashmere Belted Trench Coat
Photo: Saks Fifth Avenue
Staud Cami Leather Tall Boots
Photo: COS
COS Scoop Neck Fluffy Tank
Photo: Bloogmingdale's
Proenza Schouler White Label Matte Crepe Smocked Midi Dress
Photo: Mansur Gavriel
Mansur Gavriel Upcycled Woven Mini Bucket Bag
Photo: Saks Fifth Avenue
Zadig & Voltaire Date Gabardine Blazer
Photo: MyTheresa
LaQuan Smith Sequined High Neck top
Photo: Coach
Coach Luna Shoulder Bag
Photo: Net-A-Porter
High Sport Kick Stretch Flared Pants
Another endorsement for the shade came in the form of a coincidental, albeit off-the-runway, style moment smack in the middle of New York Fashion Week. Rihanna was drenched in fiery red for last night's Super Bowl halftime performance, in a flight suit with an armoured breastplate by Loewe, two glove-accentuated puffer jackets by Alaïa, and chunky lug-sole sneakers from MM6 Maison Margiela.
Related article: Rihanna’s Return To The Stage Was Worth The Wait
Could other major celebrity style moments be painted red in the upcoming months? I say yes, but for awards show step-and-repeats instead of stadium performances. Proenza Schouler draped one of its models in a stately strapless column gown made of deep red leather. Puppets & Puppets sent two crimson sequin dresses down its runway: one with short sleeves and a bubble hem, the other a sort of harlequin revenge dress with a deep V-neckline that plunged to the model's navel and an angular skirt. Sandy Liang unveiled her first-ever gown in her show's finale, a long-sleeve red dress with a charming rosette detail in the center of the bodice and a flowing train. They all commanded editors to whip out their phones for runway videos, and they all possessed a grown-up glamour that would be very welcome at, say, the Critics' Choice Awards (or even the Oscars.)
The finale look at Sandy Liang, which was also the brand’s first gown. (Photo: Courtesy)
The finale look at Sandy Liang, which was also the brand’s first gown.
At Puppets & Puppets, flashes of red appeared in slick sequin dresses and one voluminous faux fur coat. (Photo: Rodin Banica // Getty Images)
At Puppets & Puppets, flashes of red appeared in slick sequin dresses and one voluminous faux fur coat.
It'll be several months before 2023's red trend really saturates fashion, as fall collections land in stores. There are, however, select pieces that can help you get a head start: "Deep red looks amazing in rich leather on tall shaft boots, handbags, and even in dresses like we saw at Proenza Schouler and Simkhai," Galante says. Shop some of our favourites inspired by the fall 2023 runways in the gallery above.
This article originally appeared in Harper's BAZAAR US.