Burberry kicks off London Fashion Week with an audience-free show in the woods that is part runway presentation and part performance art with Anne Imhof, known for her arresting endurance pieces and installations.
Taking inspiration from the sea, the predominant colour was a painterly blue. The House’s signature trench coat was reimagined with loop-back lapels, graphic cut-outs, and denim panels and tails.
The rubberised cottons and boiler suits nodded to the seafarer’s uniform, while crystal-studded fishnets and fluid crystal mesh dresses evoke the mermaid’s mythic glamour.
Related article: Review of Burberry Spring Summer 2021 Collection
What the pair did instead was pare the brand down to its purest codes—very much in line with Raf’s penchant for getting to the core essence of a house he newly joins.
Some looks were distinctively Prada: the housecoat, the slim knit with the full pleated skirt, the subversively demure kitten heels, the nylon backpack, the pyjama suit, and most importantly, the idea of a uniform.
Raf brought with him long, lean silhouette of shell tops and tunics worn over trousers; fitted, branded polo-necks with holes cut out of them that were layered under most of the looks.
We cannot wait to see what they will come up with next.
Related article: Review of Prada Spring Summer 2021 Collection
The limitations caused by lockdowns and restriction of travel have triggered endless possibilities for creative director Jonathan Anderson.
The clothes themselves speak volumes, with an emphasis on the theatrical and sculptural. There are balloon sleeves, crinoline skirts, and other bold shapes that were inspired by Spanish theatre costumes as well as the fabrics and cuts of the dresses of flamenco dancers.
Couture techniques were also employed in this collection. On one dress, the bodice consisted of tiny appliqué flowers with embroidery done by hand.
Related article: Review of Loewe Spring Summer 2021 Collection
In the Grand Palais where the Chanel show was held, the brand’s name was spelled out supersized, evoking the iconic Hollywood sign in California.
The inspiration for this collection was old Hollywood glam, but think of it as an updated wardrobe of the modern starlet. The collection is joyful and youthful, with T-shirts printed with the letters of CHANEL like neon-lights.
There were also black and white gowns, denim, leather shorts and pink capri pants, as well easy tweed suiting. Just what an actress might need for an entire press junket.
Related article: Review of Chanel Spring Summer 2021 Collection
This season, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri reinterpreted the iconic Bar jacket by founder Christian Dior by adding laces that allow it be cinched tightly to achieve the classic wasp-waist silhouette, or worn loose, over lace dresses and wide-leg trousers.
She was also inspired by the wardrobes of two of her favourite writers—Susan Sontag and Virginia Woolf, where she reinvented simple white shirt that can be worn as a tunic or dress. The collection was also interspersed with weightless chiffon dresses embellished lavishly with intricate beading and embroidery.
Related article: Review Of Dior Spring Summer 2021 Collection
Read all of EIC Kenneth Goh’s recommendations here.