While at times superficial, in the paradoxical world of high fashion there is often more than meets the eye. Take the location of Roland Mouret’s latest Spring/Summer 2018 collection for example: The National Theatre; just south of the Thames. It is not wrong for the ladies who lunch that live in the French designer’s clothes to quickly assume that the collection would be, at first glance, sombre and rigid — oppressive, even — like the venue’s Brutalist architecture.
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In truth, what was on offer yesterday was anything but, because at the House of Roland Mouret, love is in the air. Incredibly pleasurable accents of blue, orange and the dreamiest shade of lilac punctuated a collection that was soft, sexy, feminine and free-spirited — a drastic contrast from the surrounding cold slate-grey foyer where celebrated women of varying heights, waistlines and dare we say age, breezed down the runway.
Both clothing and the diverse and inclusive casting attributed to the stellar success of the show, and as it should, because it takes a little more experience in life to pull off a statement necklace made to look like an anatomical heart. And to that, we wholeheartedly heart it!
This season, drama has informed the London shows — both on and off the runways. And Versus Versace’s Spring/Summer 2018 show was no different. The angry PETA protesters that often picket outside the show venues, this time at Central Saint Martins, was the largest and loudest the anti-fur group has been. It was actually so loud that superstar FKA Twigs was scared into hiding — refusing to leave the show until the mob cleared. The renowned fashion college has has not seen this much tragedy on its hallowed grounds since hungry fashion students threatened to boycott the school canteen over tawdry edible offerings.
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You would think that all the jeering and spitting outside would ruffle Donatella’s feathers and cause her glorious platinum locks to frizz, but no. Not only did the Italian designer look flawless when she emerged to take her bow, she also successfully delivered a legendary love letter to youth-orientated culture — with much aplomb, might we add — for Versace’s diffusion line yesterday.
In today’s digital age of Instagram, fashion houses are now aggressively targeting the young. While most of them won’t be able to afford the clothes on the runways right now, it’s always wise to build an emotional connection with consumers, potential and existing, now so they actually return to the brand when they are finally up for doing some serious credit damage. And really understanding (read: properly defining) this relationship is Versus — as clothes fit for the young and forever young is seen through Donatella’s idiosyncratic take on Americana.
Epic face offs between duelling gun-slingers in vintage films about the Wild Wild West come to mind — as plaids and checkered-printed jackets get sliced and diced, and reinvented to reveal the sexy slivers of skin so synonymous with the Versace DNA. Clever chevron patterns at the backs of shirts and dresses also exude modernity. And finally, cementing and completing the look of a modern cowboy and cowgirl are fringed studded boots that allow their wearers to kick some serious outlaw protesters. Sorry, we mean, posteriors.
Talk about drama in the high noon.
COS 10th Anniversary Party at The National Gallery
Not since the mischievous fictional boarding schoolgirls from the cult British masterpiece St. Trinians stole Dutch painter Vermeer’s “Girl With the Pearl Earring”, has the National Gallery seen so much drama — until last night, because the COS 10th Anniversary party was a total spectacle.
Staged at iconic British institution in Trafalgar Square, the Scandi high-street hero celebrated its 10th birthday with the sartorial set and special musical guest Rudimental. Guests were treated to mouth-watering canapés and drank exclusive handmade cocktails before dancing to the British band’s music; alongside the priceless works of Vermeer and Van Gogh; in the Annenberg Court — after the Gallery was closed to the public.
A brilliant end to Day Three of London Fashion Week, we’d say!
By Adriel Chiun