Jonny Johansson is Paris’ new guard experimentalist, pulling inspiration for Acne Studios from the great deconstructionists of the past (and present). His fans appreciate the way he takes common wardrobing language, like work wear especially, and completely rewrites it. For fall, he created an artfully ragamuffin brigade of menswear, leather utility, artfully layers and an all-around shifting of perspective.
It’s hard not to think of Celine Dion in her backward white Dior suit, more the notion of seeing things turned around. Whether it was a political statement or not, it was purposeful as the clothes were cut to be worn backward – a leather tunic had pockets sewn in on the forward-facing side (which was the bum of the look); oversized double-breasted blazers had eyelash fringe sewn in helter skelter and long gowns had deep-v’s in the back.
The best looks were those where tattered, frayed, off-kilter came together in button-down sweaters layered over asymmetric dresses, sort of like polished mayhem. This created shape and let the accessories – terrific leather bags and lace-up boots – shine.
Materials included sturdier wools and knits as well as pretty florals and a ton of men’s wear stripes and suiting, which were mixed together in patchworks.
Acne speaks to a specific fearless, maverick dresser. One who likes the classics repurposed – a white button-down with an off-center collar and patches, pearls showed up as charms on bags and suit stripes showed up as caftans.
By Nandini D’Souza Wolfe
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US