To the giddy delight of many, Phoebe Philo and Céline joined Instagram less than a week before Philo presented fall. The marked delay in social media interaction seems in step with the fact that the last collection, resort, was unveiled across the board the day of the American collections. Philo does not like attention, nor talking about her clothes. Perhaps she finds tedious the endless need for people to get to the root of what she does, to figure out the magic of how she builds upon her new minimalism season after season. These are clothes, after all. Damn good ones.
Everything Philo does has a pared-back elegance and ease. Every day pant suits, almost frumpish in their roomy, boxy cut are elevated with blouses with extra long collars and a palette and detail so spare, it must denote the wearer means business. Capital B. Or a how long fur takes on the same throw-on-and-go appeal as a daily coat, demystified, kept in constant rotation and yes, price justified.
Philo’s silhouettes were long, loose and liberating — no politics involved. Even the jersey dresses with empire waists seemed like the kind of look you reach for when you don’t want to think about it. The bags were big enough to stuff every thing a woman — and potentially her children and colleagues, too — could possibly need during the course of a day. A working mother thinks of literally everything.
Her runway made a case for suiting, sending out looks for day and night, sometimes mixed in with striped shirts and skirt-over-pant combinations, A-line dress shirts or dress shirts turned into caftans. A few tuxedos popped up, their pants left looser, blankets tied around the waist for shape and the models also carrying an extra blanket. For midnight naptimes? Who knows, but here’s betting the house that Céline throws sell like hotcakes.
While the collection was pretty spartan, there was a map printed coat, a graphic wheel and a trompe l’oeil. But it was the darker, minimal looks that stood out — all the better to notice the terrific alphabet necklaces.
By Nandini D’Souza Wolfe
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US