Few settings could be more dramatic than sitting under the Louvre’s glass pyramid—the ultimate cross-section of classical art in the modern world. It takes quite a designer to tear your attention away from looking up, but Nicolas Ghesquière was up to the task, unveiling his fall Louis Vuitton collection.
He laid it on thick with the outerwear, kicking things off with a slick black leather coat matching the shine of satin gold bias-cut dress beneath. Elegant, edgy and cool. The next look? One of three short-sleeved jackets made of varied furs spliced together. Jaw dropping. What they were paired with (cropped, slightly flared pants in two cases, a silk skirt in one) seems a superfluous detail.
But why stop there? A Seventies-style fur trench was belted with mega sass over an electric blue pantsuit while metal studs and grommets detailed a worn-in brown leather moto cut so precisely it could work in a boardroom. (Well, some boardrooms.)
What started as half slips in the first half the runway segued into full-on slip-dressing by the end. But this wasn’t a clear-cut retread of the ’90s. It was tougher and somehow more feminine thanks to laces treated to shine, mixed with other patterns and cut into looser silhouettes.
Ghesquière showed the surprising versatility of the slip, stripping away its coyness and babydoll connotations. Here, it stomped out with tall or short combat boots, layered under covered-up turtlenecks or over textured tops, and for an unusual evening, worn with furry capelets.
By Nandini D’Souza Wolfe
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US