It comes as no surprise that Nicopanda’s SS19 collection took to drawing inspiration from the 90’s underground dance culture. The show space set the mood entirely as guests sat in darkness with only a giant glimmering disco ball at the corner of the room to show. What cascaded down the runway that lined the room was a mixture of sequins, neons and ferocious animal prints, all in the spirit of what seemed to be the aftermath of a long night out. Not forgetting kooky accessories like light-up devil horns, electric blue cowboy hats and metallic tinsel for hair to complete the club-ready streetwear collection of slinky dresses, sporty co-ords and chunky sneakers. To end the show with a bang, like any great night out, Nicopanda revealed a series of t-shirt designed by NYC based artist, activist and Nicopanda crew member, Hilton Dresden, as part of a partnership with Merch by Amazon that was immediately ready to purchase post-show.
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Continuing the theme of reminiscing the past in the present, Marta Jakubowski showcased her ode to the Noughties through a nostalgic collection of strappy dresses, floor snagging trouser hems and slinky satins. The collection was a time travel of sorts, a way to dig back into the past and remembering certain moments associated with it “You know, I always remember something I was wearing from my first night out, or my first kiss, or the first time i ran away from home. Or perhaps I wasn’t even wearing it but I associate it with that moment,” said the Polish-born London designer. Though it is but a peek into her younger days, the show still did appeal to every woman, young or old. Femininity is distinctly celebrated across ages with her signature evening dresses, pencil skirts and tailored jackets all updated with wrap fastenings and rewashed with fresh colourways of mint, teal and a soft mauve. Juxtaposed with snippets of her time in Ibiza, the Spanish party island, which presented itself through subtle use of fluorescent piping and lace details alongside jarring hues of lime green and bright pink.
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You can always count on Ashley Williams to present a show with no holds barred, that not only makes you feel part of her ultra cool girl gang, that were but of course present at the show, but also leaves you high on the sensory overload that comes with each collection. From the giant glitter boulders that set the stage to the tunnel of graffiti that led up to the show space at House of Vans, an underground skatepark and event space; Very befitting of her “London cool girl” style, no? And in true Williams fashion, her knack for clashing prints and graphic colour palette was once again the glue that held the entire collection together. Understated hues of black and white weaved in and out through the looks in the form of newspaper prints, sheer embroidered blouses and in ultra-shiny PVC. While it felt like they were almost ‘too cool’ to be worn off the runway, there were key pieces that will definitely be on many girls’ lust lists — namely her signature embellished hair clips that needs no description. When you see it, you’ll know.