With Kim Jones’ incoming role at the helm of Fendi womenswear, Silvia Venturini Fendi is back to designing menswear at Fendi after last season’s solo co-ed outing. For her latest collection, Venturini Fendi posed the question ‘What Is Normal Today?’ The clothes she presented seemed to propose that normal today looks quite a fair bit like the normal of before, but with major concessions to comfort and familiarity, and twisted with subtle subversions that hint at a sense of newness.
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The twists were in the way shapes were let out into roomier proportions and elongated lines that evoked boyishness, in the little slashes cut into jackets and trousers, and in the contrast pipings, seamings and revers. These touches lend zing to a collection that was otherwise classical and straightforward, composed mostly of staples and dependable wardrobe heroes rendered in a neutral palette that was occasionally broken by pops of scarlet, yellow, magenta, emerald and ice-blue, and a scrawling print that brought to mind neon lights.
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The cosiness that underpinned Venturini Fendi’s spring/summer 2021 collection was continued here, but adapted for the autumnal season. This resulted in robe coats, ribbed knits, puffy down coats, quilted separates and fittingly for Fendi, gorgeous shearling and fur pieces. Almost every look was accessorised with a bag, whether toted purposefully in the hand or worn nonchalantly around the neck.