Miuccia is a complex thinker in fashion. And she gives her women the benefit that they are complex creatures, too. Not merely lemurs who are led by their noses to shiny baubles that are hollow. Which is not to say that Prada and women don’t love shiny stuff. As is so often the case with a Prada show, it encompasses, provokes and pushes all the ideas of what it means to be a modern woman. As in: really difficult—and kind of condescending, actually—to define. So please don’t try. She’s a wanderer her whole life, looking for something…happiness, love, whatever. For those searching for something at Prada, they found a phenomenally good collection.
In the days leading up to the show, Prada dropped hints on her Instagram about journeys through dreamy collaged landscapes, strength, femininity and the progression of nature. As esoteric as those Easter eggs were, the audience just experienced raw emotion of desire, of wanting the metallic jacquard skirts and military coats, the argyle gloves (like socks for your hands!), the high-and-tight cross-body bags and the lace-up boots. Everything looked familiar and yet different. A great tailored gray men’s coat was spliced with brown mink and thrown over argyle tights—can we get excited now about those tights? Forties-era dresses that Prada loves so much were spotted, too, but done sheer and belted with knitted corsets.
Stella Tennant looked majestic—by the tilt of that chin, proud—in a moss Scottish plaid field coat and red plaid tights. The relatively pared down look brought into view the accessories, which deserve a review of their own. Keys and leather-bound books dangled from thick chain necklaces, belts and from straps of cross-body bags. Nearly every bag was intricately detailed with layers of leather flowers. Shoes were high and either hiking boots—because obviously this lady has conquered Himalaya, patent buckled booties, and tons of ankle-strap wedges, all worn with patterned tights.
Fur was left natural and used to trim the sleeves of patchwork jackets, plaid capes and distressed black leather coats, both long and short. A midi sheered mink had a detachable hoodie—because luxury should be utilitarian, too. But the showstopper was a hooded fur-and-argyle tights combo. With a model in slick hair and blood red lips, the entire look was wild and divine.
It was dizzying—the prints, color, pattern and silhouette. Prada created a pastiche on nearly every look, mixing gold brocades with abstracted desert scenes, florals and even vintage illustrations. It encapsulated a woman’s life, perhaps, the entire wild journey. Maybe this was Prada’s own journey. And how thrilling to be invited to go along for a leg of her trip.
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US