A Deep Dive Into The Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 Collection
Harper’s BAZAAR Creative Director, Windy Aulia, zooms in on the details of the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 collection.
A lot has been said about that fateful rainy day in May when Nicolas Ghesquière staged his Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 show in Isola Bella, an idyllic island in the middle of Italy's Lago Maggiore. Of how the unexpected thunderstorm ruined his initial plans of having one of his most imaginative collections be presented to the guests amidst one of the most beautiful gardens in Europe, and instead was shown inside the Palazzo Borromeo.
Though, in hindsight, the turn of events actually worked to his favour. As I and many of the other guests took our seats inside the hallowed halls of the opulent palace, we got an intimate look at the collection. Up close, it became apparent that the layers of references that Ghesquière played within the collection was truly remarkable. There were dramatic dresses, the allusion to the mystery of a fantasy lagoon, as well as the illusion of conjured up fairies and heroes and creatures in Louis Vuitton's own fashion tableau. Ghesquière’s signature abstraction of period and time, the stark contrast between reality and fantasy, as well as the juxtaposition of the familiar with the new, made the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 show feel really special.
Related article: Louis Vuitton Employs A Shaman To Keep Rain Away During Catwalk Shows
I was lucky enough to get the chance to shoot some of the looks the day after the show, and to see details that one might miss if one didn’t look close enough. Here are my findings:
Sci-Fi, Sea Sirens And Suggestive Details
Photo: Paul McLean
Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 Isola Bella_Paul McLean_1. SciFi Sea Siren
Ghesquière's wondrous mind worked like a charm this time around, mixing his signature Sci-Fi elements with references of mythical creatures. Think Twilight Zone meets Splash. An amazing cascading paillette skirt was paired with a band jacket and worn with theatrical headgear that’s giving a 'Queen of the Seas' vibe. An otherworldly half mask appeared on several other looks in the collection, reminiscent of the mythical character Abe Sapien in the Hellboy franchise.
Beautiful Beads And A Nod To Seafarers
Photo: Paul McLean
Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 Isola Bella_Paul McLean_2. Landscape Beads
While cruise collections are usually known for their wearability, there’s no doubt that some of the looks presented in this collection are couture-worthy. The exquisite bead works and handcrafted details would have required many hours to produce. But what’s cool about them is that Ghesquière didn’t treat these pieces preciously. He utilised the atelier's know-how on oversize silk shirts, baggy trousers and draped wrap dresses. Layering came into play as well, with elaborate beaded tops hidden underneath tattered t-shirts, just to give enough richness peeking through.
Related article: Live From Los Angeles, Seoul, Isola Bella And Mexico City: BAZAAR’s Editors Report From The Cruise 2024 Shows
The Art Of Accessories
Photo: Paul McLean
Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 Isola Bella_Paul McLean_3. Acc
It wouldn’t be a Louis Vuitton show if there weren't any must-covet bags and bold accessories in tow. There’s the new icon Go-14 bags and its Malletage diamond pattern, the boxy Side Trunk (which is touted to be next in line), while the clamshell Vénus bag practically stole the show. Then there were the statement-making rings that the models wore - the more you looked at them, the more they look like spaceships.
Navy, Neoprene And Nylon
Photo: Paul McLean
Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 Isola Bella_Paul McLean_4. Naval Neoprene and Nylon
The collection is truly an homage to the area surrounding Lago Maggiore. The view there is breathtaking and the misty morning when fog descends upon the water is truly magical. Just like the scene in the 2013 movie Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World, when Russell Crowe and Paul Bettany stand at the bow of the ship, on the cusp of discovering a new territory. Cue the anchor buttons and the The Pirates Of Penzance suede boots. Add to that some neoprene pieces and dramatic nylon parkas for good measure.
Related article: Cruise Report 2024: Idols, Icons And Idyllic Locations
Dramatic Drapes
Photo: Paul McLean
Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 Isola Bella_Paul McLean_5. Drape and Dress
If you've been following Ghesquière’s journey with Louis Vuitton, you would know that dramatic dresses are a new addition to his oeuvre. Of course, in his hands, they look more like a stylistic interpretation of rolls of sea waves rather than straightforward red-carpet numbers. They’re made with pleated silk and lace in soft pastel palettes with raw edges shaped by corset boning structure. For day, draped silk short dresses in gem tones were worn with bicycle shorts for a modern take.