What NYFW Designers Wear In Their Studios To Prep For The Big (Digital) Day
Because they don't only make the fashion, they wear it too
To call these times unprecedented may be true, but it's hardly the whole story. New York Fashion Week made the decision to go mostly digital, and designers are adjusting accordingly. The show, as they say, must go on. Jobs and livelihoods depend on it, and fashion can serve as a bright spot in what can be dark moments. And this isn't the first time the show has gone on through times of hardship—like a post 9/11 world and during the Great Recession of 2009. In light of all that, we turned to the creatives behind some of the labels showing next week to see how they're coping, what their ideal fashion worlds and calendars look like, and of course, what they're wearing now.
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Wes Gordon
—of Carolina Herrera—
What do you wear to work right now, and why?
Admittedly, I’ve been dressing more casually these days. My daily uniform now is likely black jeans, a dark T-shirt, and, of course, a mask.
Other than this fashion week, which one stands out to you as pivotal (either personally or on a larger scale)?
My first season as creative director at Carolina Herrera–spring/summer 2019.
What would the fashion calendar look like in an ideal world?
That there would be no universal calendar. Each house would present at the moment that they felt they had something unique and authentic to say.
What is the biggest thing that needs to change in how we approach fashion now?
More and more focus needs to be on quality over quantity; on special, beautiful pieces that bring us joy and brighten our day. Pieces that feed our soul rather than our desire to consume.
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Svitlana— of Bevza —
"I'm wearing a V-neck knitted long white dress from my fall-winter 20/21 collection that I am very proud of. This is Italian yarn, which is made from recycled plastic bottles." —Svitlana
What do you wear to work right now, and why?
I usually wear a lot of Bevza in the daytime, so there are no specific things for my work. There are a lot of my personal style preferences in Bevza collections. I just wear my stuff.
Do you ever design anything for yourself to work in? If so, what and why?
That has been the most challenging season for the last 20 years, I think. In my opinion, the most important in terms of online (as we cannot do a lot of online presentations) is to share the values of labels, to share the cultural and historical themes of our lands.
We are separated now in traveling and in communicating face-to-face because of COVID-19, and we can communicate through art projects, through the storytelling of our land, cultural values, and heritage. And we can change, in some way, people's consciousness, the consciousness of the new generation. We will try to show them how to cherish their own land.
What are your thoughts on the approach to NY Fashion Week this season?
So I would like to say that by showing, by declaring vital values, each should have a sustainable approach to manufacturing, and each should concentrate on new working facilities within their own county, to develop new technologies for U.S. people within the U.S., for Ukrainian people within Ukraine, and raise an artisanal production culture as well.
Other than this fashion week, which one stands out to you as pivotal (either personally or on a larger scale)?
As we live in Ukraine, the other fashion week I would consider is Paris, because it's easier to fly from Kyiv to Paris (laughs). But I'm happy to showcase the previous five seasons in terms of NYFW. I really like how prompt everything is organized there. And for me, it was also a challenge. For a soviet label to come to the big scene and the reaction of Bevza has been very positive, so I'm happy with NYFW.
What would the fashion calendar look like in an ideal world?
In my ideal world, a fashion calendar would look like one presentation a year, and maybe some other drops to stay online. Maybe one or two collections per year, but not more. There is still overproduction, and we face huge ecological problems now. We don't need just clothes, we need more thoughtful, more storytelling items.
And for designers to work twice a year on collections, I think everybody will show better results. Not just concentrated on commercial efforts, but bringing fashion to a new level of art, but art that you can wear every day, carry every day in your life.
What is the biggest thing that needs to change in how we approach fashion now?
The biggest thing is the presentation of a collection, like shows or online shows, should be done in a day when it comes to the stores. So I think it would be perfect to do a collection before head and half a year, to work with buyers, to produce it for the stores, and then, right before it comes to the stores, to showcase the collection to people. Because why should people wait half a year, and why should we spend a lot of efforts on additional advertising just for people not to forget this collection? I think it would be easier for both sides and it would be fairer.
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Anna Sui
What do you wear to work right now, and why?
I've always "dressed" for work. Usually, I wear something from my collection. This summer besides dresses, lots of eyelet tops. I also love my Hawaiian-print pants and shorts.
Do you ever design anything for yourself to work in? If so, what and why?
Yes, every collection there is something I design for myself. This season, I'll wear my favorite dress in the spring 2021 video.
What are your thoughts on the approach to NY Fashion Week this season?
I love a fashion show and everything that goes into it! But I realize it's a different time, so I've engaged in exploring the new now. Digital showrooms and images, as well as a video presentation.
Other than this fashion week, which one stands out to you as pivotal (either personally or on a larger scale)?
My first show will always be the most sentimental, scary, and meaningful, because all my friends and family helped out so much to make it possible.
What would the fashion calendar look like in an ideal world?
I always lament the days when New York Fashion Week was the last one. We seemed to have more time to develop one collection. We could count on our factories in Italy sending fabric in time. And we could enjoy the holidays!
What is the biggest thing that needs to change in how we approach fashion now?
It's time to reset, rethink, and reboot. It's all-new territory with different challenges and priorities, a new era.
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Hanako— of Adeam —
She is wearing Adeam's ruffle T-shirt and on her desk is the kimono bag. Both items are available for purchase on the recently launched e-commerce site.
What do you wear to work right now, and why?
I've been wearing a lot of the Adeam pieces made in wrinkle-resistant and machine-washable fabrics. Since it's very hot and humid in Tokyo right now, it's important that everything is washable at home. Also, when you're sitting at your desk all day, whether it's at the office or at home, it's nice to not have to think about things getting wrinkled easily.
My go-tos have been our statement tops that are easy to wear but make you feel instantly polished for a video conference. One of my favorites is the Adeam ruffle T-Shirt that's made in our signature Japanese cotton and is super comfortable, but the ruffled sleeves add a touch of feminine flair.
Do you ever design anything for yourself to work in? If so, what and why?
I always think about the everyday wardrobe of women, because I want my designs to be functional as well as visually interesting. I think the balance between comfort and a polished feeling is key when it comes to my work outfits.
Many of the pieces in our collection are designed with Japanese technical fabrics that are wrinkle-resistant and machine washable, and the silhouettes have an ease to them, so they're comfortable to wear at work or at home.
What are your thoughts on the approach to NY Fashion Week this season?
I think it's great that the CFDA is offering designers to present digitally through their RUNWAY360 platform. Due to international travel restrictions, I'm not able to physically fly to NY for Fashion Week, but I'm still able to be a part of NYFW because of this new platform. I'm thrilled that we can share our collection with a wider, global audience through our first digital runway show.
Other than this fashion week, which one stands out to you as pivotal (either personally or on a larger scale)?
Fall 2013 is a very special season for me, because it's the first season that I presented Adeam at NYFW. It was incredibly exciting to bring the collection from Tokyo to present for the first time in New York.
What would the fashion calendar look like in an ideal world?
It would be nice to be more inclusive and have a more diverse roster of designers for NYFW. I think the new digital platform, RUNWAY360, will definitely open doors to more international designers to be a part of NYFW.
What is the biggest thing that needs to change in how we approach fashion now?
As a designer, I feel that it's important to be mindful of the environmental impact of the fashion industry, and how much waste we produce. I designed my entire resort 2021 collection using fabrics that we had in stock, and it was a very inspiring experience. I'd like to continue to think about different ways of minimizing waste while still staying creative.
Sandy Liang
What do you wear to work right now, and why?
It just started getting a tiny bit cooler, so I've been wearing my new fall collection, mixed with go-to pieces from the summer.
Do you ever design anything for yourself to work in? If so, what and why?
I don't know if I think about it like that, it's more that I design things that I want to wear regardless of the occasion.
What are your thoughts on the approach to NY Fashion Week this season?
While I can't say I know what is happening with NYFW, I am personally happy that things have slowed down, and I feel like I can present on a scale that makes sense to me, financially and emotionally. While I always love our shows, it definitely is draining to manage that process especially when you are a part of a super-small team. I'm glad we got to sort of go back to a more pared-down approach and do a look book.
Other than this fashion week, which one stands out to you as pivotal (either personally or on a larger scale)?
I would have to say my first year, FW14. I know it wasn't a super-long time ago, but it feels like a totally different environment now. I think a part of that is just me and my brand getting a bit older, and so I get excited about different things than I used to, and I have different goals now.
What would the fashion calendar look like in an ideal world?
I think everyone has a different ideal. For me, there would be no calendar, and you would present when you were ready and happy with the clothes, but consistently enough that you could support your cash flow.
What is the biggest thing that needs to change in how we approach fashion now?
That's a big question. As a consumer, I am tired of seeing everything everywhere. I am nostalgic for the days when you could go to the mall and discover something that made you happy, that made you feel excited. I want that excitement to come back.
Maisie Wilen
What do you wear to work right now, and why?
A lot of vintage house dresses in bright prints with chunky sneakers. I need peak comfort for my days spent hauling materials around L.A.
Do you ever design anything for yourself to work in? If so, what and why?
While I don't specifically think about that while designing, I definitely do wear MW to work, especially the YS302 leggings and sweatshirts.
What are your thoughts on the approach to NY Fashion Week this season?
I feel very positive about the approach to NYFW; it's a sign the industry is reassessing its values, approach, and timelines. I'm optimistic the new perspective will be permanent.
What would the fashion calendar look like in an ideal world?
I would love to see the fashion calendar dissolve entirely, allowing brands to release new products at a slower, more meaningful pace.
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Ryuhei Oomaru— of Overcoat —
What do you wear to work right now, and why?
I wear our classic wool shirt from my collection, Overcoat. I need my clothes to be versatile because I wear multiple hats. I am the president but also the creative director of my brand. My day is filled with business meetings, but I also spend a lot of time using my hands to pattern-make at my studio.
Our wool shirts are made from superfine merino wool, so it looks more formal than a shirt made in cotton broadcloth, so it transitions well from working in the studio to business meetings. But the silhouette has a lot of ease and suppleness, which allows me to move around and pattern-make. Merino wool has various technical benefits too; it keeps you warm when it's cool and cool when it's hot. It's a brilliant fabric, because it's wrinkle-free, too, so I'm not afraid to tie it around my waist, something I can't do if I'm wearing a formal cotton shirt.
What are your thoughts on the approach to NY Fashion Week this season?
A lot of change needs to happen during and post-pandemic, and I think NYFW is trying something new and I respect that. That's what I love about NY: It's a fearless city with a lot of positive energy and is malleable to changes and extraordinary setbacks.
Other than this fashion week, which one stands out to you as pivotal (either personally or on a larger scale)?
I tend to depart from the past. Making clothes that are right for the current market and presenting them at the right timing is what matters most to me.
What would the fashion calendar look like in an ideal world?
For Overcoat, an ideal world be based on a more organic schedule. Some people find us on our website or Instagram, and place an order for something to be made. We advise them of the lead time, usually a couple of months, and we make it at our studio and deliver it to them when it's completed. I think this is the ideal calendar for our brand.
What is the biggest thing that needs to change in how we approach fashion now?
Understanding that in order to create well-made clothing, it takes time. Creation requires human minds and hands, and there is a limit to how fast we humans can work.
LaQuan Smith
What do you wear to work right now, and why?
I wear a black T-shirt, sweats, and denim slides. I wear this because I want to be comfortable while I work but chic all at the same time.
Do you ever design anything for yourself to work in? If so, what and why?
No, I don't really design much to work in, but I do, however, design clothes for myself to go out in. I do that primarily because that's what the brand is about! It's all about feeling confident and sexy, young and modern. Whenever I go out with friends or to a function, I always want to make a statement, so wearing LaQuan Smith is an absolute must.
What are your thoughts on the approach to NY Fashion Week this season?
I think New York Fashion Week right now is kind of depressing, and the reason why I say that is because I just feel like the level of excitement and vibrancy is gone due to the pandemic and due to everything that's been going on around the world socially and culturally. It just really put a strain on so many industries, and I definitely feel like a lot of businesses have been affected by what has been going on. And it just doesn't quite feel the same.
In a weird way, I feel like it puts a lot of pressure on me to step up and still do my job in terms of inspiring people and making women want to feel sexy again and making them want to shop again.
Other than this fashion week, which one stands out to you as pivotal (either personally or on a larger scale)?
I feel like each fashion week season for me really represents growth in the sense that the collections continue to get stronger, perhaps our buyers continue to escalate, and I think for us we always want to be able to elevate from what we've done the last season. So I think each season has its sentimental, or more so personal, kind of factors, because we work so hard and we put our blood, sweat, and tears into all of this. So I think that each one is a pivotal moment in itself.
What would the fashion calendar look like in an ideal world?
Ideally, more time so that emerging designers would have the adequate time to show and feel like they are recognized in the market place.
What is the biggest thing that needs to change in how we approach fashion now?
We need to get out of the stigma and stereotype of supporting Black, and let's just support emerging by supporting real talent and designers with a true vision and a true understanding of what fashion has the potential to be for the near future, as opposed to things being so racially charged. I would love for us to just really celebrate hard-core, raw talent and where fashion used to be.
Marina Moscone
What do you wear to work right now, and why?
I'm always in my uniform consisting of black trousers that hit just above the ankle bone and an oversized striped shirt from one of my collections (I have a closetful in rotation!) and our Frances slides. Very rarely do I divert from this uniform, unless I add a tailored jacket over it.
Do you ever design anything for yourself to work in? If so, what and why?
Yes, I know how the Moscone woman wants to feel, because I can relate to her. She's very much like you and me, a progressive, modern, working woman of substance. So naturally, I design for myself in mind too.
What are your thoughts on the approach to NY Fashion Week this season?
I've not paid attention to what others are doing, but our approach is a needed new one that I'm thrilled about. We have made a short film showing the artistry behind developing this collection. You will see the process behind our meticulous workmanship and hand craftsmanship. I am a designer who works in a very hands-on way. I sketch, drape, sculpt, dye fabrics, embroider, weave on my loom—I’m old school.
This film is for everyone, not just limited to exclusive editors and buyers like runway shows were; it’s for the Moscone woman. She deserves a special experience during fashion week too. After all, she's the one investing in the brand.
Other than this fashion week, which one stands out to you as pivotal (either personally or on a larger scale)?
All of our shows have been purposeful and beautiful to me. I think with each one comes great strides and growth both personally and professionally. I am on a constant evolution from season to season, and you see that in the collections. I correlate the trajectory of our success to our ongoing discipline, tenacity, and hard work as a team, not to a particular show or moment.
What would the fashion calendar look like in an ideal world?
I think everyone needs to do what's best suited to their brand or business. In my case, that's focusing more on the Moscone woman, the customer actually investing in the pieces. I don't believe that putting on a spectacle for a very small group of insiders in the industry is necessarily satisfying or rewarding for our clients. I want to move forward in a more inclusive way that makes everyone feel appreciated.
What is the biggest thing that needs to change in how we approach fashion now?
The leading industry organizations could support its designers in a way that isn't based on condition. I also feel there needs to be more authenticity and open dialogue involving the truth—less judgment, less smoke and mirrors. I'm not sure how sustainable it is for those who operate in that dated way.
What works for us is doing what's best for our brand and team, and doing what's suited to our woman. I would encourage others to do that, rather than follow others.
Veronica Miele Beard & Veronica Swanson Beard— of Veronica Beard —
What do you wear to work right now and why?
Veronica Miele Beard:I’m loving the black-and-white Albertina Cashmere Sweater paired with the black Kaylee Leather Pant and the Dacey Clog in black, because the baseball style sweater makes it look cool, yet polished enough for the office.
Veronica Swanson Beard:I live in jeans and a cool blouse or a white T-shirt with the navy Miller Dickey Jacket and Dacey Clogs.
Do you ever design anything for yourself to work in? If so, what and why?
VSB: Of course! We've modified the collection from resort onward to reflect a more off-duty attitude. Pieces that are casual but can easily be dressed up.
What are your thoughts on the approach to NY Fashion Week this season?
VMB: We're all adjusting to a new normal, and many designers are finding it difficult to navigate a set calendar due to delays with production, reduced or remote staff, and restrictions on capacity at live events. I think it's only natural that each designer will want to show in a way and at a time that works for them. This relaxed format leaves room for the industry to innovate and for designers to maintain their creativity and come up with new ways of showing our collections and connecting with our customers.
Other than this fashion week, which one stands out to you as pivotal (either personally or on a larger scale)?
Both: NYFW last February meant so much to us personally and professionally, because it was our first time doing a runway show and it was also the beginning of our 10th year in business. The fall 2020 collection was a major moment for us to celebrate our journey and the customers who believed in us and helped us build this brand over the past 10 years. We're full of gratitude for that moment, and we hope to be her go-to for wardrobe MVPs for the next 10 years.
What would the fashion calendar look like in an ideal world?
VMB: A manageable amount of socially distanced presentations outside.
VSB: Less jam packed.
What is the biggest thing that needs to change in how we approach fashion now?
VMB: Don't give up! I still thrive off getting dressed and looking my best no matter the situation.
VSB: I think we're all looking at clothing differently, because we've needed so much less the last few months. Having closet MVPs is more important than ever!
Rich Fresh
What do you wear to work right now and why?
Right now, I'm not really wearing suits as often as I used to. I'm wearing a lot of athleisure, a lot of tracksuits, a lot of scrubs—just real comfortable pieces. And honestly, the reason is that I'm working and operating every day, I have to make sure I can move around and still be fly.
Do you ever design anything for yourself to work in? If so, what and why?
I'm always making myself stuff to work in. I had to think of the direction I want the brand to go in and I always put it all on myself before I present it to the market. There are a lot of track suits I recently started doing, which you will see me debut at New York Fashion Week. In terms of to work in, sketch or really get my hands dirty, I love being in the tracksuits—they're just so comfortable, and it's still elevated, so I don't feel like I'm slumming. I feel successful, but also extremely comfortable.
What are your thoughts on the approach to NY Fashion Week this season?
My thoughts on New York Fashion week's approach. Honestly, I think it's genius. A lot of big, organized events had to shut down because of lack of creativity. It's really a testament to their team's innovation, that they're able to figure out a way to still give this to the world. And people still have that passion, they have that sense of direction. So to be able to make it all happen virtually. I think it's awesome. It gives us a chance to get more from the designer than we generally would on a runway. So I think it'll give people an opportunity to really connect with their favorite designer in a way that they weren't able to before.
Other than this fashion week, which one stands out to you as pivotal (either personally or on a larger scale)?
This my very first collection is my very first fashion show. Before, I was just hustling, I was just working all the time. As much as I love fashion, I either didn't have the money, or I didn't have the time or some combination of both. So for me, this one's special because this is the first time that I'm stepping out of the role as a tailor and taking on the role of a designer and showing the world what I can do. So it's a really pivotal experience for me.
What would the fashion calendar look like in an ideal world?
Now there are so many seasons in it. Ideally, I think that the calendar will be based more on the consumer's ability to get access to what's good. If it's not going to take six months to get the customer access to what you're designing, why show a collection six months before? In the digital age, show something in real-time that someone can wear for the next quarter or the next six months and then just keep them at that current pace.
What is the biggest thing that needs to change in how we approach fashion now?
One thing that stands to change is that it seems like the same key designers keep getting all the opportunity and all the rotation. It's like listening to a radio station and only hearing the same 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 voices all day long, at a certain point. It really skews your perception of music.I think that there are a lot of young, new brilliant designers. I would love to see more opportunities presented to new faces than just regurgitating the same designers over and over and over, moving them around.
Photos: Courtesy
This article originally appeared on Harper's BAZAAR US.
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