Seoul Fashion Week has proven time and time again that encouraging new emerging talent is central to keeping the fashion industry fresh. This season, it was no different. Uxion, part of Seoul Fashion Week’s ‘Generation Next’, impressed the audience with their collection built around ‘deconstructed chic’, while other favourite brands returned for another successful season. Here are our highlights from the shows:
- 1. YCH
For autumn/winter 2019, designer Yoon Choon of YCH presented a collection inspired by a recent historical trip to Matera, Southern Italy. Italian terrazzo inspired fabrics were presented in shades of browns and beige, along with pops of sky blue and yellow. Highlights included slick tailoring, pleated leather and thrown-on coats in upscale checks, plus the finale of oversized Victoriana dresses.
Designers Kim Bona and Lim Jae Hyuk studied in London before launching the BESFXXK brand in 2017. In this season’s collection, they juxtaposed classic wardrobe pieces with more youthful streetwear. Sharply tailored trench coats in tweed and camel were paired with sporty quilted puffers for a strong, layered effect. The designers were also heavily influenced by heritage pieces worn by the royal family.
3. Big Park
With prints based on the works of Mark Rothko, designer Park Yoon Soo of Big Park explored proportions and colour mixing for autumn/winter 2019. The catwalk looks were effortlessly oversized, with a unique take on mixing masculine and feminine into a genderless style that worked equally well for both.
Bourie presented a collection described as ‘feminine punk for sensible sorts’. The pieces were heavily influenced by the 1980s, combining asymmetrical button-up tailoring with dressy, elegant skirting, wearable overalls and trousers. Hello Kitty bows and acres of plaids were Bourie’s print of choice for autumn.
Designer Lim Seon-ok at Parts-Parts showed a topical collection that investigated environmental concerns, most obviously through slogans of ‘Zero Waste’. A palette of signature reds and pops of other primary colours stood out against sleek silhouettes, with a flexible and relaxed fit. Key looks included sporty interpretations of tailoring in Neoprene and easy shoppers adorned with a ‘hand’ motif gestural print.
6. The Gang
Since starting in 2017, The Gang has become one of Seoul’s brands to watch. Building on the last few seasons’ heavily denim-based collections, this autumn designers Coco J Lee and Crayon Lee experimented with checks, corduroy, leather padding and quilting, creating a new interpretation of femininity. Dresses were short or ankle grazing, teamed with slouchy separates.
Shown as part of Seoul Fashion Week’s ‘Generation Next’, a scheme which champions new design talent, Uxion delighted the audience with a collection built around ‘deconstructed chic’. The tailoring balanced downtown sensibility with an uptown feel. Hero pieces included padded protective outwear which translates well from the city into the country.
This article originally appeared on Harper’s Bazaar UK.