By Harper’s Bazaar Singapore Team - published
Jonathan Anderson timed every element of his fall Loewe show exactly as he wanted it. It was curated, in other words, to the Nth degree, from the gold and Yves Klein-ish blue cube seats to the Lucite ones filled with every day items—one stuffed with disposable ladies razors, others with steel scouring pads or copper pot scrubbers. Anderson was having a Warhol moment that nicely set a stage for his equally thoughtful collection.
There was an air of grownup dressing to this season in the lineup of snug tops and pleated or flowing full skirts—all cut with hanky hems. If this was his canvas, from there, he added in carefully placed jewelry and accessories. Golden discs turned into earrings, chain chokers, arm bands and even details on strappy sandals.
The leather bags came out in half-moon shapes, camera styles and classic boxier silhouettes like the house's popular Amazona detailed with chains and tassels. The colors spoke to the neutral palette of the clothes.
For all the more grown-up fare, though, Anderson didn't lose his sense of fun and assumes that a woman won't either. He's spent the better part of his brief Loewe tenure rebranding it into a cooler, modern label. One way of doing that is to repeat the message via t-shirts and sweatshirts with the logo emblazoned across them. It's old-school marketing, but if you write "Loewe" enough times in a jazzy font on a t-shirt people will start to associate it with something younger and more in-touch. And if said t-shirt happens to be thrown on a model who's also wearing high-end fur and leather goods...
Two of the strongest themes here were the bustiers—that sculpted the outside of artfully shredded dresses, t-shirts and sweeping skirts—and the face and cat pendants. The cat wasn't just a random choice, but inspired by the Egyptian god Bastet who was known for both her extreme power and cunning as well as her playfulness and grace. Kind of like Anderson's vision of a woman.
From: Harper's BAZAAR US