Maison Margiela was built on the idea of juxtapositions, taking known silhouettes and tropes—whether historical or current—and flipping them on their head. John Galliano, master of drama and excess, walking the halls of the lab-sterile atelier is exactly that kind of opposites-attract tension that makes MM tick.
Take the trench coat (Look 1, Look 6). It walked out looking elegant but cool in a soft neutral, the Martian-like cap and split-toe bootie the only hints of a twisted version to come. The coat morphed a few looks later into a dress worn over a lacy skirt. Still recognizable, except not.
From the kookier moments, mostly ramped up because of styling, to the more commercial, the collection focused on outerwear, injecting sporty elements via scuba-slick suits and leggings. But belted trenches and jackets in beautiful materials and anoraks and windbreakers in luxe fabrications were the news. Bunches of deflated balloon beads trimmed a series of softly tailored looks while the anoraks were done in brightly colored sheers and reworked like dresses
And there were the whimsical moments, like a pink sweater and bodysuit worn with a saddle bag-backpack and yoga mat or a color blocked knit sweater rolled and tucked into the belt prep-style.
If the new Margiela customer can’t wrap her head around the overt styling— most women won’t be wearing their MM on the street with tripping egg shell caps or crystal ear bobs that look like pointy elfin ears—they can embrace the accessories. The clogs, the platform pumps, crystal necklaces and cuffs and especially those saddle bags.
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US