Practical Magic: BAZAAR Reimagines Chanel Couture Spring/Summer 2023 With A Touch Of Whimsy
Fall under the spell of Virginie Vard’s spring/summer 2023 Chanel haute couture collection.
By Jeffrey Yan - published
Embroidered organza waistcoat with floral motifs and jewelled buttons; lace blouse with painted bird motifs; lace trousers with painted bird motifs; felt hat; satin and silk tulle bow tie; leather boots, Chanel
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For her latest haute couture collection, Virginie Viard’s starting point was, as it usually is, drawn from the history of Chanel, the brand and the woman. In this instance, it was Coco Chanel’s apartment on 31 Rue Cambon that served as inspiration. The space housed a veritable menagerie, with various objects, paintings and sculptures depicting lions, doves, stags, birds and camels.
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(Left) Sequinned pearlised tweed paletot coat with jewelled buttons; sequinned pearlised tweed shorts; satin and silk tulle bow tie; leather boots, Chanel. (Right) Satin cape with removable over-cape and jewelled buttons; satin dress; leather boots, Chanel
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These were then brought to life by the artist Xavier Veilhan, in his third collaboration with the brand, who created towering sculptures made of wood, cardboard and paper for the show space—out of which emerged the models in Viard’s spring/summer 2023 couture finery. All the aforementioned animals also appeared on the clothes as intricate embroideries, as did kittens, corgis, rabbits and swallows.
Pic 3: Quilted tweed jacket embroidered with animals and jewelled buttons; felt hat; satin and silk tulle bow tie, Chanel
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While the surface decorations were informed by Chanel’s favourite creatures, the clothes themselves were inspired by the idea of a parade. Viard referenced majorettes, ringleaders and magicians, which translated into a festive, celebratory mood, and resulted in flippy skirts and other breezy silhouettes worn with top hats, bow ties and white gloves.
(Left) Lace dress with floral motifs and jewelled buttons, Chanel. (Right) Organza coat embellished with chiffon and charmeuse ribbons, and jewelled buttons; satin and silk tulle bow tie, Chanel
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It was haute couture and time-tested Chanel codes made light and youthful. The first look out set the tone: a snowy, high-collared tweed jacket worn with a tulle skirt that has been pleated to look like fluttering feathers, and low-heeled slingback loafers. Variations of the tweed suit followed, with miniskirts and shorts lending this House classic a contemporary air. These were interspersed with coats and capes cut in short, A-line silhouettes, and lean, languid dresses.
(Left) Lace jumpsuit with painted floral motifs, embroidered braid and jewelled buttons; satin and silk bow tie; leather boots, Chanel. (Right) Iridescent lace top embroidered with deer motifs and sequinned braid; iridescent lace trousers with floral motifs; satin and silk bow tie; leather boots, Chanel
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The unfussy, pared-back silhouettes served as something of a blank slate against which to showcase the technical wizardry of the Chanel ateliers. As one would expect with haute couture, craftsmanship took centre stage, even though the apparent simplicity of the end result often belied the intricate and incredible work that went into it. The perfect alignment of the curved stripes in gold sequins on a coat- dress is something that can only be achieved through the handmade artistry of haute couture.
(Left) Embroidered organza dress with jewelled braid and jewelled buttons; organza shorts embroidered with bees; satin and silk tulle bow tie; leather loafers, Chanel. (Right) Lace dress with gold plumetis motifs and embroidered animals on black organza; satin and silk bow tie; leather boots, Chanel
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There were pieces that looked like tweed, but were actually constructed from lace; while what resembled leaves were actually feathers painstakingly cut by the Lemarié atelier. There was a jumpsuit constructed from hand-painted lace with no seams at all. Florals were printed and then overlaid with featherwork applique in the same design for a rich 3D effect.
Pic 7: Tweed jacket embellished with braid and jewelled buttons; tweed skirt embellished with braid; satin and silk tulle bow tie; leather gloves, Chanel
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Viard was also very much inspired by the idea of luxury that is known only to the wearer, hidden from the eyes of others. She translated this idea into cloth by shrouding the most dazzling embroideries under diaphanous layers. Examples of this include a pair of richly embroidered shorts worn under a sheer black slip of a dress, and the mini dress encrusted with more than a hundred golden animals cloaked under a black veil. These seemingly quiet looks best encapsulated the ethos of Chanel’s haute couture: it’s not about ostentation for the sake of ostentation, but a celebration of the highest crafts in fashion—made only for you. That is true quiet luxury.
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(Left) Cotton tweed dress with crystals in graphic motifs, embellished with crocheted braid and jewelled buttons; leather gloves; leather boots, Chanel. (Right) Tweed jacket embellished with braid and jewelled buttons; tweed shorts embellished with braid; satin and silk tulle bow tie; leather gloves; leather boots, Chanel
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Photographed by Gan
Styled by Windy Aulia
Models: Shara/Now Management, Polina/Ave Management
Hair: Colin Yeo & Dorene Low/Tress & Curvy using Hair Plus Lab
Makeup: Rina Sim
Photographer’s assistants: Samsidi Baderi, Joyce Hah
Assistant stylist: Gracia Phang
Stylist’s assistants: Brandon Chia, Naysa Pradhan