Review of Hermes Spring Summer 2021 Collection
Contributing editor Jiawa Liu reviews Rick Owens Spring Summer 2021 during Paris Fashion Week
The growing pleasure of reconnection with the world. That’s what the show notes said at the Hermes Spring Summer 2021 show. The physical show was staged at the Tennis Club de Paris and live streamed to the rest of the world. As for our team in Singapore, a beautiful supper box was delivered to them that also included a scrapbook created by creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski. The images of sculptures and landscapes, as well as artwork by Katrien de Blauwer and photographer Douglas Mandry, were reflected in the giant panels installed in the show venue, a move to connect and reconnect with guests in Paris and beyond.
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This season, Vanhee-Cybulski introduced a number of new archetypes in the collection such as the body hugging bodysuits that were tailored so perfectly that it followed the curvature of the shoulders and back like second skin. The ‘col rouleau’, or rolled collar, was the focal point on trench coats and necklines of luxe knits. The ‘tablier’, an item that resembles an apron could be transformed into a top, coat or trousers.
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Hermes’ technical mastery with leather was highlighted in the fine woven leather mesh runics (“chain mail” per show notes) on tops and dresses that moved like fringing as the models moved. The butter soft and weightless leather separates in tops, skirts and jackets were impossibly sleek and smooth, sometimes indistinguishable from fabric.
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The silhouettes were sleek and clean, from the impeccable tailored pants and mini-shorts to shift dresses and midi skirts that barely skimmed the body. This was a mostly pared back, earthy and neutral collection, but the iconic Hermes red made its appearance in full looks as well as on the lips of models — no doubt from Hermes’ beauty collection that was launched last year. Sexy slivers of skin via cutouts, bandeau tops and bareback bodysuits made this a lighthearted and youthful collection.
Related article: Review of Chloe Spring Summer 2021 Collection
All images by Beige Pill Productions