Review Of Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2022 Collection
A strong, self-assured debut by Matthieu Blazy charts a new course for Bottega Veneta
By Jeffrey Yan - published
Matthieu Blazy made his Bottega Veneta debut with a supremely confident collection. He didn’t wipe the slate entirely clean, but he did zero in on the brand values closest to him and made a compelling argument for them. There was a grown-up chicness and sensuality to his vision for the House that seems to have gone largely MIA in fashion recently; there was a deep appreciation for craft, interpreted in ways that were neither shouty nor gimmicky; but the clearest indication of where Blazy intends to take Bottega Veneta lies in his idea of modernity, which is tied to the idea of motion. There was a refreshing simplicity to the collection he presented, and it looked best in movement. These were clothes made to be lived in—impeccably made, yes, but rooted in utility and elevated by a rigorous attention to detail, construction and materiality.
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Photo: Bottega Veneta
Blazy’s opening statement was as bold as it was simple: a pair of blue jeans—worn with a white tank for her, and a striped shirt for him. The twist? Every single piece was made from leather—though one could hardly tell from looking at the pictures. The tailoring and outerwear were particular standouts. Sumptuous in cut and texture, some of them sported swooping backs—a sense of motion ingeniously engineered into the garment itself, reinforced by the curved heels the models wore. Leather suits in chocolate or scarlet looked smashing worn with towering platform boots; as were the raw shrunken knits paired with slouchy, glossy leather trousers—the homespun and the haute bourgeoisie in one look.
Before taking on the creative directorship at Bottega Veneta, Blazy clocked in time at the studios of Raf Simons and Phoebe Philo, and it shows. From Simons, an eye for the ultra-modern and a knack for making maximum impact from minimalist ingredients. Case in point: the plain crewneck knits paired with full swishing skirts in buttery leathers and summery colours— explosive fringe underskirts further amplifying the dynamism. From Philo, Blazy honed his sensibility of slightly off-kilter chic. See the classic-looking sheath dresses, turned unclassic by their padded shoulder straps; the sharp black suit, its sleek minimalism disrupted by a giant pair of furry, fluoro orange shoes; the sequined dress that felt vaguely amphibious in its colour and pattern; or the asymmetrical bubble silhouettes—Maricarla Boscono looked absolutely sensational in her black version.
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Photo: Bottega Veneta
Blazy’s vision was ultimately less cold and less aggressive than Daniel Lee’s, his predecessor. What he did continue from Lee’s tenure was the filtering of well-established codes and classics through a fresh lens. This was most apparent in Blazy’s treatment of the signature Bottega Veneta intrecciato weave. One of the most exciting things he did with it was fashioning leather skirts in mini and knee lengths, worn with shirts and tanks—it looked both effortless and expensive. There were also intrecciato thigh-high boots, paired with little dresses and sleek trench coats. Meanwhile, the craft of embroidery and embellishment was showcased on a delightful finale series of crinkly, shiny, intensely decorated slips. The whole affair made for a spectacular Bottega Veneta comeback at Milan Fashion Week and one of the week’s highlights.