By Jiawa Liu - published
If Kim Jones’ first Fendi couture collection was a touch of England in Rome, then the Autumn/Winter 2021 couture offering is a tribute to Rome, seen through the lens of Italian director Luca Guadagnino (Call Me By Your Name), with plenty of references to the cinematography style of the late Pier Paolo Pasolini, another Italian director, poet and writer.
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Photo: Fendi
For this collection, Roman mosaic is expressed in knitwear, jackets, bags and shoes. Graphic Cornely embroidery on sheer tulle brings to mind intricate moulding of Roman corinthian columns. Models in ivory leather that were pressed in pleats to resemble sculpted marble looked like Roman statues that had walked right off their pedestals. The heels on the shoes were miniature renditions of Rome’s high arches, while painted ceramic pieces like excavated artefacts, were framed in gold and formed the bodice of a dress.
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Photo: Fendi
As the collection looked through Rome in time, the casting also spanned diverse ages. Kate Moss and daughter Lila Moss were among the lineup of models, along with names like Christy Turlington, Amber Valletta and Paulina Porizkova.