By Caitlin Black - published
Closing a 10-year chapter at the helm of Balenciaga, Demna’s last collection for the Maison, the 54th couture collection, was an impressive homage to his transformational creative vision. Sculptural and intricate in detail, the pieces effortlessly encapsulated Demna’s subversive visual language of striking minimalism paired with his signature architectural tailoring. Echoing Cristóbal Balenciaga and his relentless pursuit of perfection, the designs referenced the Maison’s archives, while honouring the city where Demna began his career.
Known for his use of celebrity and virality, Demna’s cast of models included icons like Naomi Campbell, Kim Kardashian, Isabelle Huppert and PP Krit. The famous faces did not detract from the designs; instead, they highlighted his couture renditions of archetypal garments, suffused with notions of lightness and comfort. Backdropped by a sumptuous but subdued setting, Demna’s final show also paid tribute to all the people who worked with him over the last decade, with them saying their names out loud to form the soundtrack of the show.
An ode to the need to evolve and embrace change, Demna’s swan song for Balenciaga is the end of an era, beckoning forth futures unknown for both the creative director and the maison.
Ahead, our favourite looks from the show.
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Look 4
An open-neck jacket and apron skirt in bright red wool is elevated to avant-garde heights with exaggerated shoulders and severe tailoring featuring face-framing tulip lapels. Encapsulating the collection starting point—the dress codes of “La Bourgeoisie”, the look boldly represents Demna’s disruptive flair.
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Look 6
A knitted high-neck turtleneck in black cashmere is paired with capri pants in black wool gabardine and a corset in faille fabric, covered with black silk satin. The pieces redefine a classic, minimalist look with a play on proportions, making couture for the everyday.
Look 10
Inspired by Demna’s grandma’s kitchen tablecloth from his childhood, a 1957 floral motif is applied to a sequinned, matching skirt suit and handbag. Reflecting a contemporary attitude with modern tailoring and a statuesque silhouette, the look represents the meeting of couture craftsmanship and a classic wardrobe.
Look 34
Inspired by Demna’s obsession with Old Hollywood glamour, this pink “Debutante” princess dress is crafted from the world’s lightest technical organza. With an accentuated waistline, the lightweight dress is accessorised with a Lorraine Schwartz Pink Odyssey tiara, creating a sense of fantasy.
Look 29
One of nine suits created as “one-size-fits-all” features unstructured Neapolitan style tailoring pioneered by Vincenzo Attolini and developed with four family-run ateliers from Naples. The suits were made-to-measure on a bodybuilder, and worn by models with various body types, allowing for the body to define the garment.
Look 39
To close his last show, Demna’s muse Eliza (who opened his first show for Balenciaga) wore a seamless Guipure lace gown shaped with millinery techniques, creating the ultimate minimal sculptural gown that encapsulates the House’s style codes and legacy.