By Michealle Torres - published
When a Maison is left without a creative director, the task of creating a collection falls on the hands of the studio team—and what very capable hands they are at Chanel. Their designers and artisans have a truly deep understanding of the House’s codes by spending countless hours studying the archives, every camellia button and every tweed stitch. And for the women’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, the studio team drew inspiration from these pillars and, of course, from their matriarch, Gabrielle Chanel.
Set, once again, in the esteemed halls of the Grand Palais—a place that has hosted the House’s shows for decades and that recently went through renovation—Chanel presented a collection around lightness and flight. A giant bird cage dominated the centre of the space, a symbol of freedom and Gabrielle Chanel’s defiance to be caged by conventional expectations. It was a collection that stayed very close to Chanel’s iconic looks, reimagined through different textures and details. Here are our favourites.
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Look 2
This new imagining of the classic tweed set opened the show and set the tone for the collection’s themes of lightness and freedom. The skirt was less constricting, with double slits on either side, allowing for more leg movement. A gauzy, transparent blouse was worn under the blazer, which gave the suit a more lightweight feel.
Look 9
There’s nothing like feathers to evoke lightness. Our eyes were immediately drawn to this cute jacket and shorts combo. The pale blue tweed fabric is reimagined with a feathered texture and the collar is embellished with multiple layers of feathers, something bright and airy for spring.
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Look 21
One of the Maison’s hallmarks is its love for beading and embroidery, and this look shows that, even without a creative director, their skilled artisans are still very much with them. The sequinned white pants paired with the beaded blouse, the ruffled collar and those flower decorated sunglasses make for a very feminine look.
Look 47
We love this evening look. It combines classic Chanel with a sexy, modern twist. This see-through version of the suit is accented by silver and gold embroidery, which still makes it more elegant and less racy. And we have to talk about the shoes! These lace-up platform versions of the iconic black cap toe heels are very on-trend for the season.
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Look 53
Ah yes, it can’t get any daintier or lighter than this floral number. With a mix of pastels that was so refreshing to the eyes, this cape dress checks all the thematic boxes, a soft and flowing silhouette, an unconstricting structure that gives freedom of movement to the woman who wears it.