By Gracia Phang - published
The setting for Anthony Vaccarello’s spring/summer 2025 showing for Saint Laurent couldn’t be more beautiful. Held on Rue de Bellechasse, I was immediately taken by the intense blue floor that was made more dramatic by the rain earlier. Contrasted by the gold oculus hanging overhead, seemingly a warm embrace under the night sky ... Mysterious and romantic all at once, we were ready for the collection.
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Look 11
After a good 10 looks featuring power-shoulder pantsuit and tie ensembles complete with oversized frames that felt distinctively like Yves Saint Laurent himself, this flowy frock look in all black was a surprisingly fresh reset for what lay ahead. Smocked at the hips with a deep V neckline, accessorised with colourful beaded necklaces, this was a relaxing break from the waist-cinched, body-hugging dresses that strutted down Vaccarello’s runways the past few collections. This felt freeing.
Look 16
The rest of the suited looks in this collection saw perfectly knotted ties tucked into well-cut trousers secured with a leather belt, crisp shirts worn under double breasted blazers or leather jackets—there was no room for error, and we respect that aesthetic. Look 16 looked like when Yves Saint Laurent went for a breather and took off his blazer, albeit still having his hands firmly tucked in his pockets. Our eyes are on the the chocolate brown pumps instead of classic black: a trend worth noting this season, and a great option to break from the norm.
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Look 24
Enter the first pop of jewel tone; a pear-hued blouse with a soft, ruffled stand collar in that same deep, open neckline. This was paired with a shimmering floor-length skirt with paisley prints all over—a nod to the ’60s and ’70s. This evoked a sense of joy, and signalled that the collection was moving through masculinity to femininity, both powerful in their own right.
Look 27
A similar combination to the previous look but in earthy shades, look 27 felt bolder yet grounded. While the cobalt blue blouse echoed the floor of the runway, the roomy suede jacket and billowy brown skirt nodded to the oval frame above—all of which paid tribute to Yves Saint Laurent’s famous Marrakech gardens. In fact, together with the gold hardware earrings, chunky cuffs and oversized beaded necklaces, this was the look that perfectly captured Marrakech through both designers’ lenses.
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Look 47
If the previous carefree girl was daytime Marrakech, this was her as a sundown party queen. Vaccarello sent down a slew of slightly chaotic, colour-clashing, figure-hugging, hem-raising separates. A vibrant cropped brocade jacket worn over a lace top and a cobalt blue skirt once again—it was an homage to the ladies Yves Saint Laurent partied with, to glamourous times, and to an explosion of wonder and delight in those moments.
Saint Laurent’s spring/summer 2025 collection was a look back into the past, with a lens towards the future—in joy, excitement, and power.