By Gracia Phang - published
This is Matthieu Blazy’s first cruise collection for Chanel, and fittingly, he took it back to Biarritz, the French seaside town that holds strong ties to both the Maison and Gabrielle Chanel herself.
It was 1915 when she first established the first Chanel couture house in La Villa Larralde, a 16-room estate close to the casino, accessible to wealthy aristocrats, yet still possessing the relaxed atmosphere that Biarritz is loved and known for.
Instead of windows in her boutique, Coco Chanel swapped them for mirrors—so as to give her clients privacy, but also to reflect life on the streets. This not only served as the perfect prototype for her 31 Rue Cambon residence, which she purchased three years later, but also the inspiration for Blazy’s runway set at Le Casino Municipal.
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Looking out into the Atlantic ocean, where surf lessons were ongoing, the Art Deco-style building’s sand-coloured carpet completed the beach vacay vibes. As with his collections for Chanel so far, Blazy kicked off the show with a beautiful yet humble number; this time, it was a black dress in celebration of 100 years of Chanel’s iconic little black dress. Instead of having a bow at the back like the original’s, he had his oversized version on a clutch, so you can bring a bit of fun anywhere. The drop-waist frock was worn with flat loafers, which Coco Chanel would undoubtedly approve of.
Of course, with Matthieu Blazy, there’s always that element of fun, ease, and joy, and this season was no different. Formal salon wear intertwined with effortless beachwear, effortlessness alongside freedom of movement; which made perfect sense in Biarritz, where fashion isn’t a performance.
“Far from the Paris salon, Chanel found in Biarritz different ways of being and seeing, of movement and freedom,” go Blazy’s show notes. We saw full skirts with pattern embroidery inspired by parasol umbrellas and that moved like sea anemones, worn effortlessly with oversized knitted vests and polo t-shirts with cheeky details of Coco Chanel herself, including one with a striped marinière shirt reminiscent of those Pablo Picasso were famously seen in. It was a joy to see them swish with ease—dramatic yet nonchalant.
Basque stripes ran through the collection seamlessly, highlighting sailors’ uniforms and off-duty wear. Silk-cotton separates were rendered with a worn-in effect, while canvas hold-alls had scruff marks on them, suggesting a well-loved everyday piece.
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Denim pieces were covered in sequin paillettes offering subtle shimmer, individually crocheted coral patterns were pieced and enhanced with strategic beadwork to create a stunning frock perfect as a fancy beach cover-up, or even taken to a gala—an effortless switch between the world of leisure and glamour, without losing character.
While liberation, life by the coast and freedom of movement were key points, Blazy cleverly weaved in details that further emphasise the house’s couture foundations in Biarritz. Coral-like knots on the edges of jackets, using the double-C logo as an anchor of construction, and the odd-shaped paillettes that make up the mermaids’ scales—details to die for.
Of course, accessories were in delightful abundance, from oversized seashell earrings to camellia headpieces, sea urchin hair clips worn at the nape of the neck, multi-strand necklaces with Biarritz’s own Espelette pepper as charms, and more. Shoes saw a seamless switch between Art Deco-style pumps to a scene-stealing heel-anklet for when you’d like to only have your toes in the sand, and even thigh-high wellies.
Whether you fancy capacious wicker bags to fit your entire life, or sleek leather handbags in baby blue, Chanel has you covered. Not forgetting a collector’s treasure: a shell-shaped clutch with its own coral-like stand for when you’d like it as a display—something Blazy has successfully coined his.
Grounded in joy, wearability, and most importantly the ability to imagine and have fun, Matthieu Blazy’s debut cruise collection for Chanel was a breath of fresh air and a sea of dreams.