By Aaron Kok - published
Amidst a darkened arena, there was a feeling of electricity at Dior’s show last evening.
Dior has enjoyed a long history as the go-to House for designs that exalt and celebrate the feminine form. The Maison’s founder often talked about how the only creation God has perfect beyond flowers is the woman, and today, the creative stewardship sits with the House’s first female creative director in its almost 80 years of existence, Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Chiuri has been with the brand for almost a decade too, and her tenure has oft been marked by her knowing sensibilities of what her female customer wants and needs from the brand. This season, her mind was set on the idea of breaking through gender stereotypes.
It’s a big thing to tackle in the context of today’s cultural and political climate—the push and pull between liberal and conservative values is rife in the daily headlines—so how much can one collection accomplish?
A fair lot, actually, by Chiuri’s leadership. The runway, shaped like a stadium around a square courtyard, was the scene of a revolution. Here are Chiuri’s heroines, each one marching out with a swagger of rebelliousness. Here are the moody, opulent, and tactile creations that would tog the female revolutionaries of tomorrow.
Ahead, we pick the looks that made the deepest impressions with us.
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Look 11
We’re off to a great start with this look. One of Chiuri’s focuses this season was the white shirt—something her predecessor Gianfranco Ferre loved and frequently espoused—and here, it’s reimagined with a dramatic ruffled collar and exaggerated cuffs. The dichotomy of the tailored top and jacket with a fluttering skirt makes for a fabulous combination too.
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Look 24
One of the ways Chiuri is stoking the gender conversation is to bring back the corset. Traditionally, this piece of clothing item has always been seen as a constraint for women, yet under Chiuri’s directorship, the addition of industrial zips suggests the ability to break out from the constraints.
Look 39
The motocross look is something Chiuri has revisited time and time again, with her spring/summer 2025 outing last season being the most recent. This season, she’s back on the racetracks again with this leather-all-over look. It’s tough, cool, and just something you’d wear on your quest for conquering new worlds.
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Look 56
Let’s pause with the rumination for a second, because sometimes in fashion, we just love pretty clothes because they’re pretty. And this is a very pretty coat. What the photo betrays is that the coat has a slightly metallic sheen that’s stunning to behold and a great way to elevate even the most quotidian of outfits.
Look 76
The crinoline shape from Chiuri’s spring/summer 2025 haute couture presentation peeked its head out last evening with this little black dress. The structured shape of the skirt feels like a modern interpretation of the crins that dominated the courts of King Louis, whilst remaining playful and feminine.