By Gracia Phang - published
Following his debut in spring/summer 2024, which then saw a mirrored collection for men’s, Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno is back in Milan for his second women’s collection for the Italian house. Physical invites were sent in the form of a Rosso Ancora red leather-bound notebook, while the show notes spoke of dreams, details, and reality, all in a rather abstract form. Those translated into a collection filled with shimmer and glamour, grounded with classic tailoring, and veiled with an exciting colour palette. Let’s dive straight into De Sarno’s world.
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Look 9
It was a tough call between this and look 6: both of which had dreamy, rain-like effect with every move the models made: sequins from small to large are strategically placed from the middle to hem of the coat, with the larger ones at the bottom swaying freely. I imagine the sound they made as they swished; curious yet therapeutic. Oh, what a treat for the senses.
Look 14
While one’s eyes are immediately drawn to this well-tailored wool coat in beautiful army green, it almost immediately shifts to what lies beneath: a delicate lace slip adorned sparingly with paillettes that catch the light with each step. This girl is ready for a bit of fun, with her lemon yellow Jackie bag and matching manicure, and Gucci Horsebit loafer flatforms that provide comfort and height at the same time.
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Look 15
It seems like sexy slips revealing delicate underpinngs are not going anywhere anytime soon, and this number proved to be worthy of it. Equally alluring and playful, the varying materials come together with a girl’s girl sensibility. While the tiny flowers on the main body exude a childlike quality, the velvet bra cups with delicate lace shoulder straps reveal a sensuous, feminine side. All these tied together with a chain-link choker scarf, knee-high leather boots and a Gucci Jackie bag. For Gucci, the devil is in the details.
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Look 32 and 33
Once again, another tough call between two very similar looks, but this time, these are almost identical aside from the colourways. An oh-so-comfy knitted set of a slightly oversized cardigan, polo top, and mini shorts.
Of course, De Sarno spruced up the collars of said polo tops and cardigans with crystal, edging this leisure set into the party zone. Both looks were accessorised with leather thigh-high boots and puffy versions of the GG Marmont. Not forgetting the necktie-choker-scarf situation that has evolved from Gucci men’s fall/winter 2024 show into this. He’s all about the consistency and storyline, am I right?
Look 34
A palette cleanser of sorts, this butter-hued fit came down the runway like a breath of fresh air. A sumptuous leather coat with a matching mini skirt, perfectly colour-coordinated with a tan knit polo unbuttoned to its last two buttons, and a slim belt in the same colour—everything seemed calculated to the last detail. Well, not until the splash of colour from the tangerine orange Gucci Horsebit flatforms and sky blue cloud-like GG Marmont. The clash may be a bit much for some, but it works for the eccentric dreamscape De Sarno envisioned.
Look 37
Another knit set, now with bum-grazing shorts. De Sarno does not really care for the chilly temperatures of the fall/winter season, does he? Or simply because fashion is of expression, passion, and dreams—while his reality sets in in the make of the pieces; that they are classics with a subtle twist, and as seasonless as we make them to be. With this, sprinkles of paillettes cover the surface as a thin leather belt nips at the waist, perfectly matched to the bag and boots.
Look 47
Ah, the well-loved pea coats from Gucci spring/summer 2024 are back, this time in prints. De Sarno’s got the heel-loving ladies covered with crystal-embellished pumps. Not forgetting that lemon-yellow bag, which will liven up any fit.