By Windy Aulia - published
From the Spanish matador jacket and Claude Montana’s sharp silhouettes to Antoni Gaudí’s organic lines and the opulence of Diego Velasquez’s brush strokes—Nicolas Ghesquière linked Eighties references, fashion history, Spanish culture and the art of travel ever so succinctly for his Louis Vuitton Cruise 2025 show, held at the magnificent Park Güell in Barcelona.
Related article: At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière Looks Back
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
The show notes said Ghesquière was inspired by the “constant mutation of legacy”, which can be said of both Barcelona’s iconic basilica, the Sagrada Familia, as well as the House of Vuitton. The Catholic church had famously been in the works since Gaudí started construction in 1882, and continues to this day, led by generations of artists; the same holds true for Louis Vuitton—here, Ghesquière is the architect of a modern Louis Vuitton woman’s wardrobe.
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Speaking of legacy, many of the looks from the collection referenced Ghesquière’s decade-long body of work at Vuitton. The first few exits saw strong ‘80s silhouettes comprising wide brim hats, strong shouldered jackets and coats harking back to the Cruise 2020 collection that was shown at New York’s TWA—alluding to the cinematic masterpiece, Blade Runner, and evident of his personal sci-fi obsession.
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Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Draped ponchos with hoods that appeared in the middle of the show recalled the amazing Cruise 2023 collection presented at the Salk Institute in San Diego, which displayed a great mix of urban nomad and the Mad Max aesthetic.
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Monochromatic see-through gowns with polka dot accents were reincarnations of the spring/summer 2017 collection, shown at the then-newly built Louis Vuitton’s Place Vendôme flagship boutique. Prom numbers and their swathes of silk in intricate draping style were reminiscent of the fall/winter 2019 collection paraded in Centre Pompidou, replete with colourful mastery.
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Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
His play on legacy extended to the accessories. Go-14 and Soft Trunk were given only slight updates, while several others, yet unnamed, are sure to become a hit. The shoes, meanwhile, came either as pointed-toe low cut booties in metallic or solid blacks, or riding boots adorned with leather fringes.
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Ghesquière’s brilliance lays on the foundation of a constant spirit to rebuild, recharge, and rejuvenate. Each collection that he creates adds and enriches Louis Vuitton as the leading brand in fashion. This is yet another LV Cruise collection that inspires us and makes our minds wander; exactly what fashion should be. Bravo.