By Michealle Torres - published
Now into their fourth year of collaboration, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have perfected the mix of classic and contemporary. For the Prada Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection, this dynamic duo pushed their combined aesthetic further by delving into an exploration of the real versus the unreal, the truth and pretense. This season, Prada’s signature prints and Simons’ trademark oversized cuts made way for colour blocks and a slimmer silhouette.
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The show was held at the Deposito at Fondazione Prada in Milan, which was kept grey and bare; except for the little white house with a winding path that served as the runway. This stood like a totem, seemingly floating and elevated from the floor, serving as the sole point of origin, where the models emerged to unveil the collection. A totem of the essential, the necessary and the real. In this seemingly simple, utopian world, the realness of the clothes is the main focus, uncontrived and direct.
It was a breath of fresh air to see a lot of brighter hues on the runway. Prada brought out beautiful shades of blue, bright pink, yellow and purple on mid-length coats and light cardigans. Sharp collars peeked out of sweaters and, with a closer look, animated details and intricate prints were revealed. Overalls and trousers featured colourful zippers that gave a pop of brightness to the whole look. The details of the collection may seem lost when viewed from afar, but up-close, the animate collars and hems, the wired details and the patinated garments gave the collection more depth and perspective.
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Playing on a juxtaposition of styles, the Bernard Buffet paintings printed on t-shirts lent a rock-and-roll tour vibe to contrast the very tailored cuts. Again, these show the interplay of truth versus pretense, with clothes that can appeal to different generations.
When it comes to accessories, Prada has always been on-point, but what stood out this season were the multi-coloured chunky sneakers, which have all the hallmarks of be the next It summer shoe. The sunglasses were also a crowd favourite, as well as the boxy handbags in mid and mini sizes—worthy arm-candy for the summer, and not just for the men either.
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But no matter how contemporary the collection is, artistry and craftsmanship will always be present, and the perfectly tailored jackets were a testament to that. Amidst this spectrum, the perfectly cut black leather jackets and tailored grey trousers were a constant reminder that Prada will always remain a House of exceptional savoir faire.