Prior to its Men's Fall/Winter 2024 show, Valentino teased us with a moodboard with the following: Portrait of Jaime Sabartés by Pablo Piccaso, a torso sculpture, children in uniform, and the like. What these had in common was a tinge of melancholy, nolstagia, and an air of lightness—all blanketed with a cloud of blue. Now, this got me excited. Was Pierpaolo Piccioli hinting at a new hit hue, like he did at Valentino's Fall/Winter 2022 collection? Covering the entire venue and 48 looks entirely in a unique fuchsia developed by the maison and Pantone Color Institute, known as the Pink PP. That took the fashion world by storm in the best way possible... was that going to happen again?
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino
VALENTINO-Mens-FallWinter-2024-Moodboard
Titled 'Le Ciel', and held at the historic Monnaie de Paris, Pierpaolo Piccioli kicked off his men's show on a rather heavy note, and I mean quite literally. Models clad in full-black looks; layers of tailored pieces piled upon another, then peppered with a look or two white looks, then dark layers again. I held my breath for an explosion of colours; an inkling of romanticism—something Pierpaolo Piccioli has proven to be a master of. It started with the bags, then the base layers, and then some more. It wasn't an explosion per se, but it was enough for this narrative.
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino
VALENTINO-Mens-FallWinter-2024-Finale
Blue is a colour that's often associated with masculinity, and 'Le Ciel' explores the the modern man, the gentle-man: redefining formalwear with a softer approach and then some. The devil is truly in the details—join me for a closer look.
Look 19
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino
VALENTINO-Mens-FallWinter-2024-1
Handcrafted elements always get to me. The fact that somebody put their heart, soul and time into creating this beautiful chunky knit jacket out of yarns gives it life. And if Valentino proposes this to be part of formalwear, styled over a classic polo t-shirt and trousers, I'm here for it.
Related Article: Catch A Glimpse Of BTS’ Suga In The New Valentino The Narratives Campaign
Look 20
Oversized silhouettes in softer fabrics of different textures are layered together for a subtle contrast. Note the powder pink tote: only a man who's completely assured of his masculinity has no qualms sporting this supposedly feminine colour.
Look 34
What may seem like a regular structured wool coat is actually a work of art. Reminiscent of his women's Spring/ Summer 2024 collection, Pierpaolo Piccioli decorated the sleeves and front of this long-line coat with cut-out embroidery florals, lending it a unexpected touch of elegance. The dark grey, not black, coat complements that of the soft polo t-shirt and grey work trousers—a pleasant medley of a monochrome look. Of course, a peek of the plum-coloured turtleneck adds playfulness.
Look 38
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino
VALENTINO-Mens-FallWinter-2024-7
The main character of the collection appears via a peek of the turtleneck on this mellow grey suiting—a much more gentle and fresher option to classic black.
Related article: Jeff Satur On Working With Maison Valentino For His ‘Black Tie’ Music Video And More
Look 44
Here comes the glitz! Shimmering with every strut under the lights, appearing as if it were a highly-glossed python skin number, this relaxed fit jacket is a stunner. I couldn't decide between this or the 'Le Ciel' blue version in look 36, but this ultimately emerged as the winner simply because of the possible longevity this forest green may provide—dark enough to be a classic, dazzling enough to be a statement number.
Related article: Dream Maker: Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli In Conversation With EIC Kenneth Goh
Look 50
A highly versatile and charming style with a deep-rooted history, the humble duffle coat takes centrestage as Pierpaolo Piccioli wraps up his Men's Fall/Winter 2024 collection. Rendered fully in a warm sky blue, it breaks up the uniform of shirt-and-tie underneath, lending it a much-needed uplifting mood. Also, can we call this the Valentino 'Le Ciel' blue now?