For fall/winter 2021, Anthony Vaccarello filmed the Saint Laurent collection against a backdrop of rocky cliffs, plunging waterfalls, black-sand beaches, mountain trails and giant ice floes. That sense of drama extended to the clothes too, the harsh and wintery backdrop throwing into sharp relief the colour and the glamour of the collection — statement-making pieces perfect for peacocking. These were clothes meant to be seen and then perhaps, taken off. Sex was clearly on Vaccarello’s mind—the collection veered short, tight and shiny, with plenty of midriff, legs and decolletage on show.
There was a Sixties spirit here in the way Vaccarello cut his shapes—lean, sharp, compact—mixed with an undercurrent of the Eighties in the collection’s body-consciousness, and in the bold, almost brash, colour palette of jewel tones and acidic brights. This was Vaccarello’s tribute to the legendary Yves Saint Laurent, who was a master colourist, with a flair for surprising but seductive colour clashes.
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