The Modern Woman
Demand for the clean, spare elegance of Loewe and The Row is continuing to grow. Valentino and Givenchy are pushing forth strong looks while Tisci’s new guard at Burberry is presenting a new sophisticated mood. Contemporary labels are also following suit, where comfort and ease are key guiding design mantras. Look out for brand such as Tibi from NYC, Acne, Theory (now under new creative direction from Francesco Fucci, formerly of The Row), Ochi from Ukraine and Peter Do (formerly of Celine).
Utilitarian fashion has always been appealing because of its strict uniform cuts, hardy materials and combination of smart tailoring with practicality. This season, it’s gotten adventurous, like a tuxedo jacket tucked into a pair of high-waisted cargos at Givenchy. J W Anderson offered a maxi cargo skirt while some of the best cargo trousers were seen at Stella McCartney. Deveaux, founded by street style photographer Tommy Ton, provides great contemporary-priced options in crisp parachute cotton.
Tailoring is here to stay. Call it a reaction against the hypebeast fashion we have been seeing over the past few years. Looking chic, smart and sophisticated with the right amount of attitude is more au courant than ever before. Tailored suits are also generally slouchier. From the contrast collars at Loewe, to the addition of a waistcoat for updated three-piece suits, to tailored shirts worn as jackets. This year’s trend sees a boxier, longer blazer worn over staples such as pedal pushers, Bermudas and even cycle shorts for a hybrid style that’s equal parts street and chic.
Shades Of Beige
What started subtly with shades of camel and brown proliferating as a base for ’70s optic prints and bold florals has become a legitimate head-to-toe neutral all by itself. Young ladies hoping to create textural interest in their camel tones can pick from a wide range of fabrics such as suede, leather, silk and linen. NAP has really backed this trend by investing in over 100 runway looks in neutral tones. Check out the linen suiting at Stella McCartney and easy-to-wear dresses at Acne and A.W.A.K.E.
It’s a story of escapism and hedonism all rolled into one sexy, beachy vibe that speaks of halcyon days in the sun. More item-based than a strict look, think Hawaiian shirts, tie-dye vests, racerback tank tops and the bucket hat. Ambush went grunge while Etro went surfer chic. Chloé’s logo tee was a standout from this collection by Creative Director Natacha Ramsay-Levi, speaking of bohemianism in the most louche, chic sense.
There’s always something for the fashion magpie though this time, it’s a lot more curated and less hodgepodge. For starters, prints are being mixed in more measured ways, with some of the best renditions at Paco Rabanne, where print, colour and texture combined in the most beautiful way. Patchwork details, scarf prints and delicate embroidery showcased the artisanal side of fashion, and Valentino was perhaps the most lyrical of all the examples, with each look at its grand show coming out looking more stunning than the last.