Up until fairly recently, tie-dye was as dead as a doornail. But then Beyoncé wore it on holiday on the beach, Dree Hemingway chose the print for a red-carpet event and Justin Bieber turned up to church wearing it. Cult LA brand The Elder Statesman made it a mainstay of its vibrant, California-inspired collections. Last season, Prada, Proenza Schouler, Stella McCartney and R13 turned it into a catwalk trend and the high street is already making copies. Global fashion search platform Lyst reports that tie-dye is one of the fastest growing fashion search keywords of the year so far and the Proenza turtleneck is the ninth hottest women’s product. Shopping app LiketoKnow.it reveals that searches for ‘tie-dye shirts’ are up 900 per cent this month compared to May. Tie-dye is back.

“It was a huge trend that we saw both on and off the runway and we embraced it from a wide variety of brands,”Net-a-Porter global buying director Elizabeth von der Goltz told us. “T-shirts were our key item; think the Ibiza degrade at Chloé, the purple tie-dye at Paco Rabanne, a bright and vibrant version at R13 and Stella McCartney’s oversized T-shirt dresses in pastels colours.”

Related article: Tie-Dye Has Made Its Psychedelic Swirl To The Runway

Surfer girl T-shirts might be the obvious and most accessible choice (and doubtlessly the incarnation most favoured by fashion influencers), but it’s the evolution of tie-dye that makes it feel fresh for 2019. Proenza Schouler applied the technique to denim, while Prada elevated the famously hippy print by using it on feminine silhouettes such as mini dresses and A-line skirts. Couture fabrics such as duchess satin furthered tie-dye’s luxury credentials.

Photo: Getty
Photo: Getty

“Historically, tie-dye has a hippie, ’70s flower power connotation, whereas the new spring tie-dyes are very modern,” says von der Goltz. “From the more sophisticated colour combinations to the more elevated fabrics and the unexpected shapes, the new tie-dye is more elevated and fashion forward.”

Selfridges has also bought into the trend in a big way, citing Prada, Balmain and MSGM as standout brands. “Acid washes and bright tones have transformed tie-dye from its hippy roots,” says Selfridges womenswear buying manager, Luke Mountain, adding that modern iterations go beyond T-shirts. Tie-dye can be found “splashed across puffer jackets from Shoreditch Ski Club, wool jumpers from Balmain and embellished skirts and dresses at Prada”.