Shot in the striking modernist gem that is the Villa Necchi in Milan, Walter Chiapponi‘s latest collection was presented in a series of cinematic Zoom-style vignettes and showcased on a diverse cast of characters that included Karen Elson, Irina Shayk and Maria Carla Boscono. The languid pace of the video matched the languor of the clothes, which had more of an ease and a lived-in quality compared to his debut collection last season.
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The pieces conjured a bohemian but aristocratic sensibility, with textures that looked washed or worn and silhouettes that were never cut too tight or constricting. Styled by Katie Grand, nothing was too polished and perfect-even the tailoring was soft with sporty accents. Rich but relaxed, these were clothes that would look equally at home in the city or at a country house. Chiapponi’s use of a gorgeous painterly palette infused the whole collection with radiance and warmth. Baby blues and pinks mixed with lilac, saffron, burnt ochre, marigold and emerald while icy greys and earthy tones provided a counterbalance.
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On the accessories front, the standout was a triangular top-handle tote and a fuss-free saddle hobo that strikes just the right balance between softness and structure. The timeless T bag came in both pleasing neutrals and dazzling highlighter-neon hues. Most of the women’s looks were grounded by kitten mules with see-through, sculptural heels or a soft, flat sandal-loafer hybrid. Other clever hybrids included sneakers with ballet-shoe straps and slouchy boots roped with thin gladiator straps.
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