Dark swans in black—cloaked, corseted and wrapped in Yamamoto’s signature ropes took a scene out of Les Miserables and felt romantic, though a touch macabre. Yohji girls don’t sell sex—she is sexy from the glints of skin you see peeping from shoulders that are left bare from the wrap of a dress; a flash of skin from the thighs shown in short blanket dresses; all with with sneakers or running boots so it’s not deliberately delicate and feminine. The corset dresses and crinoline skirts looked ravaged by time, as if attic finds got the better of mildew and moths, but in the designer’s hands look daringly modern and splashed in vibrant red or sombre in black. The theatrics of fashion played out to fans of this Japanese genius.
Text by Kenneth Goh