Azzedine Alaïa was fashion’s consummate rule breaker, known for his gorgeous body sculpting pieces that defied the concept of seasons or trends. In his second collection for the French house, Pieter Mulier seems proud to carry that torch. While other ready to wear brands (Paco Rabanne, Kenzo) haven taken to showing during Haute Couture Fashion Week, Mulier presents something more unusual: a mostly ready-to-wear collection with a handful of couture pieces sprinkled in like Easter eggs. Among the ready to wear looks, fanciful feathers (a hallmark of couture) covered the hems of a sheer lace gown and knitted turtleneck dress. Meanwhile, the simple black finale look turned out to be couture. The through-line was construction: lace and laces became a scrim through which the body is revealed. A voluminous gown with a keyhole plunging to the navel and a ball skirt with Swiss cheese holes at the hips offered fresh takes on body-con.
Related article: The Best Street Style From Haute Couture Fashion Week Spring 2022