BAZAAR NewGen has been a springboard for fashion talent in Singapore for many years running, and alumni continue to make a huge splash in the industry long after completing the program. We recently caught up with designer Esther Choy of ESH by Esther, a 2017 finalist who has since launched her career at a commercial brand as well as a brand of her own, bringing her designs to fashion showcases around the world. With a design ethos focused on functionality and practical wear, Choy keeps the wearer in mind while fashioning clothes which still look chic and urban. Below, Choy tells BAZAAR all about what she’s been up to in the years since completing the NewGen program and how the values and lessons she learned continue to resonate through her work today.
I took part in BAZAAR NewGen when I just graduated from Lasalle College of the Arts, and it has been such a journey since then for both my career as well as my development as a designer. I currently work for a leading local fashion brand as my day job, and work on my own brand ESH By Esther in the evenings and on weekends. Having the opportunity to work for a commercial brand, while still having a creative outlet by designing through my own brand, has really helped me to see both sides of the industry, to see where creativity meets commerciality, and to see how to blend both in designs that are still unique as much as they are wearable.
BAZAAR NewGen gave me the unique opportunity to meet people and mentors in the fashion industry in Singapore that I would otherwise not have had the opportunity to be put in contact with this early in my career. In fact, it was some of the feedback from the judges during the competition process that pushed me to further consider various aspects of my brand’s design and aesthetic. The competition also gave me a platform to jump-start interest in my brand, which has led to many other opportunities in the form of invitations to shows overseas, or selling opportunities.
Related article: Introducing The BAZAAR NewGen 2017 Singapore Finalists!
The focus on functionality was initially born from an interest in menswear designing and tailoring. Realising that there were a lot more functional details included in menswear than in womenswear, I explored the idea of incorporating some of these elements into womenswear in a way that is not only functional, but also highlights the inner workings of garments that sometimes get taken for granted or overlooked.
Currently, the brand focuses on highlighting the functionality of pockets in various ways. Making the pocket bags (usually concealed on the inside of garments) a key focus in the aesthetic design of the clothes brings focus to that element, which opens up a conversation thread between the brand and consumers. This allows for natural curiosity, which leads to the opportunity to educate consumers on how these elements play a part both as functional and aesthetic elements in the brand’s designs.
Another concept that I have been playing around with in the designs, while more subtle, is to slant the pockets at a certain angle to reduce the drag of the garment when there is weight in the pockets, resulting in the garment retaining its initial look and shape when worn, even with weight in the wearer’s pockets.
I also believe that clothes should be incorporated into the wearer’s life in a way that benefits the wearer. An idea that I am really excited to develop further would be garments that can transform from one function to another. Currently, it has taken shape in the form of a bomber jacket that can be folded to become a bag. This exploration came about through a discussion of how Singapore’s temperature fluctuates wildly between indoor air conditioning and the heat of the outdoors, leading to people having to take off their outer layers; for example, when they leave their offices, they would have to hold their jacket in their arms. A jacket that transforms into its own carrier frees up the wearer’s hands, allowing for full mobility.
I would say that it has been an interesting and fulfilling journey taking up the challenge of building a brand based in Singapore. As the fashion industry here is growing, I think a lot of designers in Singapore have banded together to encourage and lift each other up. For instance, the fashion show FashionCONNECTS Catwalk with a Conscience created by Daniel Boey brings together many brands and offers them a platform to showcase their works to a wider audience. The rapport built backstage with the other designers is unlike anything else: all of us were excited to be taking part in the show and be able to meet each other in person after knowing about each other’s brands from online platforms. Moreover, I am very thankful to be a part of the lineup as it has been challenging figuring out what next steps should be taken for the brand post-Covid.
Related article: Night At The Museum: Behind The Scenes Of FashionCONNECTS’ Catwalk With A Conscience
I think one of the best pieces of advice that I have received in the past, and continue to stick by, is to be confident in your own design aesthetic. Everyone is different and that’s the beauty of it. Also, to be brave in putting yourself and your designs out there. Opportunities are out there, but they have to find you working at your dreams.
*This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
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- ESH by Esther
- Esther Choy
- Fashion