Julien Dossena showed his Fall 2022 Paco Rabanne collection on the eve of Haute Couture Fashion Week, and there was a tactile, handmade feel to the show, which played with volume and texture to simultaneously contour and build architectural forms around the body. The waists on dresses came cinched, while exuberant peplums at hips and hemlines contrasted control and release. The show notes referred to these cantilevered shapes as “flounced basques,” closely fitted Victorian jackets extending past the waistline over the hips. And indeed there was a historical feel to the collection which seemed to meld the house’s 1960s origins with the 19th century. Bell sleeves that extended way past the model’s added further dramatic flourish to the proceedings. —Alison S. Cohn

Nigo’s first collection for Kenzo introduced a new category of clothing, which the the Tokyo-based designer and cultural entrepreneur dubbed “real to wear.” Melding founder Kenzo Takada’s codes like sculptural collars and omnipresent tiger motif with easy silhouettes and layers, the lineup offers a fresh range of polished full looks ready to go straight off the catwalk. There’s no need to pick the runway styling apart to find pieces that will fit into your everyday lineup. Cozy ponchos and sweater vests featured archival plaids, while splashy intarsia knits and tailored separates were paired with retro baker boy caps, as a nod to Nigo and Takada’s shared admiration for Japanese workwear culture. The hotly anticipated debut brought out the likes of Kanye West (Julia Fox, in tow) and Pharrell Williams, who were seated front row. —Shelby Ying Hyde