Screams of teenagers—a disconnect with the idyllic London neighbourhood where Daniel Lee staged his sophomore collection for Burberry. They’re there for Skepta, the British grime music sensation, and Bright, Thai BL star/singer and notably the British brand’s Asian ambassador.
The special tent that housed the runway show in the middle of Highbury Fields and the picnic mat on the wooden bench gave the ‘outdoor-sy’ atmosphere that Lee conjured along with his own iteration of the gabardine trench coat that the British brand is known for. They are now punctuated with a drop-waist belt, perfectly tailored but with a twist—another one of Lee’s bold moves that include bringing back the Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) insignia and taking the Burberry logo back to a serif font. The ‘twist’ might have been the most important message that the Yorkshire-born designer has been reiterating—the perverse act of disconnecting what Burberry has come to be known for in order to reconnect with a new audience.
A clever play on the trench coat, check. A new bag that riffs on saddle-design, check. A strangely cooler version of Wellies and boots and heeled-thongs with rosette details, check. When it comes to Burberry’s ubiquitous signifier, Lee opts to downplay the Burberry checks, instead introducing his own artsy foulard prints on silk dresses as well as cherry/strawberry prints on blouses and trousers that are refreshingly lovely.
Speaking of food, the Norman’s Cafe food truck serving British snacks like Guinness pie and a hot ‘cuppa’ became a great post-show IG spot for hipsters and guests alike. Just ask Bright, decked in the new Burberry blue outfit from Lee’s debut last season, who looked mighty bright as he shared with BAZAAR his new music and plans for his own company after recently becoming an independent artist. And by the sound of things, it’s going to be spectacular. Much like the Daniel Lee’s Burberry.
Related article: Burberry’s “Art of the Trench” Goes Global