The Emerging Designers To Watch From Spring 2023 Fashion Month
You know the establishment names; now get to know the new designers shaking things up.
It’s one of the most jam-packed fashion months yet, with designers far and wide making their return. But in addition to the familiar names, under-the-radar designers are making their mark and oftentimes getting just as much attention as the mainstream giants. New York Fashion Week alone will see over 100 different designers presenting new collections. Here, we’ll be charting the new names to know, as well as the established but still under-the-radar brands to watch for the spring 2023 season.
This article originally appeared on Harper's BAZAAR US.
Just a year ago, Lùchen made its runway debut with clothing that drew the line between theatrics and the surreal, with pink puffy shirt coats, floor-grazing white button ups, and sheer marvels in bright blue and black. The duvet-like gown that swished across the runway was also particularly genius. The unfinished hems and technical construction paid tribute to Martin Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester. Designer Lu Chen is a recent Parsons grad, and is already creating her own unique design identity. She opened fashion week on Wednesday, September 8th, with a runway show that made an equally strong statement.
Another new name on the scene is Elena Velez, who takes inspiration from her Wisconsin roots to create fashion that merges on Midwest industrialism and chic apocalyptic. Steel corsets, PVC harnesses, and sheer layers combine for something that feels truly new in the crowded New York fashion space. Her brand is just a few years old, but already, Kali Uchis, Grimes, Charli XCX, Arca, Kim Petras, Tinashe, Rico Nasty, and Caroline Polachek have worn her work. Last season’s show was intimate and atmospheric, though this season’s, which took place on Saturday, September 10th, acknowledged Velez’s growing profile: Julia Fox showed up to the show dressed in Velez’s clothes.
Mia Vesper is already known for her psychedelic tapestry jackets and metallic threaded pleats that combine a luxury approach to craftsmanship with a slightly bohemian twist. Her pieces are pure colorful craft, with a hint of wanderlust-inspired chaos. After a season off, Vesper is returning to the schedule with a presentation on Sunday, September 11 and, if past collections are any indication, there will be plenty of lush upcycled textiles in unexpected forms, and maybe a croc texture corset or metallic pleated top or two. Fans of the brand include Beyoncé and Pete Davidson.
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The past couple of seasons, Puppets and Puppets has been the name everyone talks about at fashion week—but even more so with the brand expanding into stores like Bergdorf Goodman. Carly Mark takes the approach of an artist, integrating esoteric references in left and right. The pièce de résistance of Puppets and Puppets? A black leather handbag with a lifelike resin cookie. Expect the show on September 11th to include a performance element, and fashion that makes you laugh (in a good way) at her runway show. “My biggest inspiration is always film,” Mark explains. “I love horror, I love science fiction, I love strangeness.” She describes her work as “romantic and moody, left of center, young and also modern, with a bit of dark humor in there as well.”
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Jackson Wiederhoeft founded his namesake line just three years ago, and it’s already one of the most exciting labels to watch: think Alice in Wonderland silhouettes with a twist of prep. Prior to launching his brand, Wiederhoeft designed for Thom Browne, and it shows through in the demi-couture techniques and brushes of surrealism. Wiederhoeft describes his work as “Modern nostalgia. Old and new. Familiar and strange. Something that you might have seen as a child, or was it in a dream? Prick your finger on a spinning wheel levels of drama.” He’s recently been looking at everything from the subjective nature of memory and passionate desire to Miss Trunchbull (yes, the villain headmaster from Roald Dahl’s Matilda) and spilled treasure chests as inspiration, and will present a runway show on Wednesday, September 14th. “I want to create an experience, a vision, that inspires others to create,” he says. “My wish is for people to see the work, and to become so excited by it that they feel a burning desire to create something themselves. There are so many stories within all of us—stories that deserve to be heard and appreciated. If I can encourage someone to express a story, or craft a world, then this collection will be successful in my eyes.”
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