The 10 Emerging Designers To Know At New York Fashion Week
They’re worth having on your radar.
New York Fashion Week is officially back, with major American brands like Thom Browne, Altuzarra, and Gabriela Hearst returning from Paris to take part in the IRL festivities. Big names aside, one of the distinct joys of NYFW is uncovering new and emerging talent—and for spring 2022, there’s a lot to take in.
Related article: New York Fashion Week’s Best Runway Looks
Thankfully, in the age of social media, brand discovery is easier than ever. If you keep up with fashion insiders on Instagram, there’s a good chance you’re already familiar with some of the newer names making appearances. A-listers like Hailey Bieber have been wearing Kim Shui’s sexy, party-ready designs, for example, while Kim Kardashian introduced us to former Yeezy designer Maisie Wilen’s second-skin dresses. Hinting toward a more expansive talent roster, the schedule also includes names like Black Fashion Fair darlings Theophilio and House of Aama. And indie fashion fans will enjoy A. Potts, Private Policy, and Barragán’s inclusive approach to dressing.
The bottom line is while you may come for the established names, be sure to stay for the next generation. Ahead is a curated list of emerging brands to have on your radar.
Related article: The Best Street Style From New York Fashion Week Spring 2022
Yeezy protégé Maisie Wilen (whose real name is Maisie Schloss) quickly rose to fame after Kim Kardashian was seen sporting her psychedelic striped dresses and skirts—in several different colors—back in 2019. The L.A. based designer has become known for her poppy, sugary approach, so spring 2022 is sure to include ample color and lots of fun fabrics.
Championed by industry insiders like T.A. luxury boutique owner Telsha Anderson and Black Fashion Fair founder Antoine Gregory, Theophilio is quickly becoming a household name. Jamaican-American designer Edvin Thompson makes contemporary clothing with an island feel and a Brooklyn heart. Between the brand’s one-of-one Family Reunion tees that made waves this summer and his selection of carefully woven knits, Theophilio has pieces for everyone.
Founded by mother-daughter design duo Akua Shabaka and Rebecca Henry, House of Aama creates timeless pieces that are inspired by the Black experience. The brand is produced entirely in Los Angeles, and in keeping with the West Coast lifestyle, the look is undeniably laid-back: Think effortless pieces like billowy tops and wrap skirts with polished details.
With more than 180,000 followers on Instagram, Kim Shui has attracted some pretty high-profile admirers. Her super-sexy party attire has been worn by Hailey Bieber and both Gigi and Bella Hadid. The Y2K-meets-Bratz doll aesthetic and form-fitting silhouettes will undoubtedly propel the brand to the next level.
As inclusive as it is fashion-forward, the New York– and Shanghai-based brand Private Policy offers everything from sportswear to relaxed tailoring to party dresses. The brand’s founders, Haoran Li and Siying Qu, have put sustainability efforts at the forefront of the brand’s ethos, with a focus on genderless silhouettes and high-quality fabrics. Look for tactile finishes (like open mesh overlays) to amp up the overall sensory experience of each collection.
Social-Work is a New York–based brand founded by Chenghui Zhang and Qi Wang that specializes in cool clothes with a distinct downtown feel. Combining Chinese elements like utilitarian silhouettes with Western details, each collection brings a human touch to the design and production process. The brand also offers a level of much-needed transparency with a database on its e-commerce site that charts who makes the pieces and how many hours each one takes from start to finish.
Inspired by designer Victor Barragán’s version of Mexico City, Barragán represents the future of fashion in the best way. The unisex label draws attention to the Mexican capital's status as a burgeoning style hub, while incorporating elements of the nation's history in the process. A prime example: Its popular leather spiral pants are inspired by an ancient petroglyph symbol that represents evolution. The brand has become a fan favorite among underground fashion fans looking for something with a bit more edge.
As the name suggests, emerging brand Puppets and Puppets designs clothing that presents a playful take on doll-like silhouettes. From Marie Antoinette–inspired minidresses with Baroque prints to accessories like its viral cookie and pomegranate bags, the brand doesn’t take itself too seriously (aside from its focus on using upcycled deadstock materials). It's putting the fun back in fashion for the new season.
A. Potts is a unisex brand with clean-cut lines and pristine tailoring. Designer Aaron Potts was born in Detroit but raised in Brooklyn, and like many other BIPOC creatives in the industry, he discovered his love for fashion thanks to well-dressed members of his church in their Sunday best. The designer’s pieces are meant to transcend seasons and trends, meaning you'll want to wear them again and again.
A prime example of how fashion and art coincide, contemporary label LRS is all about concepts coming to life. From the bold motifs directly inspired by art photography to unexpected takes on classics like the jean jacket and blazer, each piece is designed to stand out. The brand was created by Mexican designer Raul Solis, who has strong industry experience—he created denim for Proenza Schouler—under his belt.
This article originally appeared in Harper's BAZAAR US